Jump to content
SAU Community

What Are These In My Boot

Proximity Motorsport
 Share

Recommended Posts

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey

just wondering if anyone knows what these are... They are in my 1989 R32 GTS-T four door. It did have an air purifier on the rear parcel shelf but i have removed it cause it was broken/couldnt figure it out. And im not sure if they are to do with that.. i doubt it though. They have ALOT of wires going into it... I want to fit a sub box standing up and it just doesnt clear these 2 boxes... any idea what they are for...

post-39806-1211325166_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1211325350_thumb.jpg

Edited by choku_dori
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220172-what-are-these-in-my-boot/
Share on other sites
Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i had that suspision too... i have removed hicas... but i was under impression r32 hicas was all mechanical... and ive removed the solenoid and the pump for it from engine bay... but maybe this box is to do with it...

I also recall reading somehwere there is a green wire i can cut to turn off my hicas bulb so it doesnt think there is an error.. rather than taking the bulb out i can leave it there and then when i get low power steer fluid it will warn me... but i wasnt concerned cause my light never turned on anyways haha but i cant remmeber exactly which one etc... just wondering if i can remove the whole lot of both of these and not be affected

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its your HICAS Computer / ECU... Well one of them.

Basicaly You have 2 ECU's. One at the front, behinde the left hand side pasenger kick pannel.

Two, in the boot where you have pictured.

Guess there is no harm in removing it since you have already removed the HICAS System.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

The left hand module is your abs computer. In a gtr or gts4 it also doubles as the 4wd computer, ie both in the one module, but in yours just abs.

The right hand side one is the hicas and speed sensitive power steering module.

If there was a round one in betwwen the two, that would have been the audio amplifier, but it looks like you don't have that one from your pics.

The engine ecu lives in behind the panel to the left of the front passengere's feet. The automatic ecu lives in behind the panel to the right of the driver's feet.

Edited by heller44
  • 2 weeks later...
Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
  • Author
Posted

shit aye... so i guess if i remove either or ill lose my speed sensitive steering and abs... ill give it a shot and see how she drives... see if abs still works

  • 10 months later...
Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted

Hey i know this thread is getting old but i was wondering if you ended up removing the ecu/s and if so wat happened.

Did you lose the ABS? Im asking because i actually want to remove ABS but taking the fuse out doesnt work apparently so i was wondering if i can just unplug the left ecu...? Will this have any unwanted sideaffects?

Or does anyone know any other way of disabling it? Can i wire a switch into the ground wire or something?

  • 2 weeks later...
tommo87 Community Regular

tommo87

Posted
Posted
hey

just wondering if anyone knows what these are... They are in my 1989 R32 GTS-T four door. It did have an air purifier on the rear parcel shelf but i have removed it cause it was broken/couldnt figure it out. And im not sure if they are to do with that.. i doubt it though. They have ALOT of wires going into it... I want to fit a sub box standing up and it just doesnt clear these 2 boxes... any idea what they are for...

wtf! lol , its like your ecu is aftermarket and its in the boot lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...