Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats The Best Pod Filter?

Astro Bear
 Share

Recommended Posts

Astro Bear Veteran

Astro Bear

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, Obviously one of the first things a Skyliner does is install a Pod. What I want to know is, what is the best type, brand etc when considering:

1) Best Flow

2) Best Price

3) Best sounding (For all the ricers out there :) )

Any friendly advice and help will be great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220276-whats-the-best-pod-filter/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

GTR-32U Mentor

GTR-32U

Posted
Posted

You could do a lot worse than the Apexi Pod filters. They would be the best that I know of. Not that foam crap that gradually deteriorates and gets ingested by your engine. Apexi is washable and is priced quite well .....look on ebay

R33 4 me Explorer

R33 4 me

Posted
Posted

In all seriousness they are all pretty much the same give or take 1%. Induction noise is the same and also you won't notice any power increase. I have 3 Pod's 3A Racing, Autobarn cheapie and an Apexi. Never noticed any difference between the 3 and the only reason I have the Apexi on now is because it bolts straight to the AFM.

jenkies Mentor

jenkies

Posted
Posted

im sorry but alot of this is wrong!!! threads like this have been done time and time again..... there was a thread a while back where i put up the results of all the most common pods!! not gonna go into as much detail but

those saying APEXI... bullcrap they cost four times more for half as much quality

3 a racing 1st flow 601cfm (yes i couldnt believe it a cheapie and no i dont use these personally)

K&n secondish flow 579cfm

simota secondish flow 594cfm but poor filtration

(APEXI) CRAP 533 cfm

tenzo

AEM

hks direct

trust airinx

all between 550 and 500 cfm and not the best filtration

thankyou

i personally use twin drift filters cant remember what the figures were but they werent in the test... i do know these area fairly good tho

subie Grand Master

subie

Posted
Posted

refering to pod filters test from AutoSalon Mag 2007 (can't remember which month)

- 3A racing came 1st in flow and 2nd in filtration ($42.50)

- K&N : 1st in filtration and 4th in flow

- Apexi : came around 6th in both flow and filtration

I had Apexi and now i've got 3A on my car..

Cheers

Astro Bear Veteran

Astro Bear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow, the 3A Racing seems to be the go. I always love it when 'cheap brand' items rate the highest. I guess its why I love Jacar Response Car audio as well. Whats the induction noise of those 3A filters? Anyone had experience with these filters?

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
im sorry but alot of this is wrong!!! threads like this have been done time and time again..... there was a thread a while back where i put up the results of all the most common pods!! not gonna go into as much detail but

those saying APEXI... bullcrap they cost four times more for half as much quality

3 a racing 1st flow 601cfm (yes i couldnt believe it a cheapie and no i dont use these personally)

K&n secondish flow 579cfm

simota secondish flow 594cfm but poor filtration

(APEXI) CRAP 533 cfm

tenzo

AEM

hks direct

trust airinx

all between 550 and 500 cfm and not the best filtration

thankyou

i personally use twin drift filters cant remember what the figures were but they werent in the test... i do know these area fairly good tho

Wow, the 3A Racing seems to be the go. I always love it when 'cheap brand' items rate the highest. I guess its why I love Jacar Response Car audio as well. Whats the induction noise of those 3A filters? Anyone had experience with these filters?

3A is quite good. a lot better than my stock airbox sound wise. cant say preformance or comparisons to other pods

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...