Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Dont forget you run the risk of your paint cracking when they roll it. Thats why they'll never garantee it.

Try a different offset rims maybe?

ill take the risk, im quite happy with the rims, and cant really afford changing them over and bla bla bla

still no one has any good places in mind???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3890211
Share on other sites

No need to get someone to roll your guards.

The tools you'll need are a heat gun, jack, a yellow pages book and a friend.

Heat up your guard where you want it to be 'rolled', jack car up, put yellow pages book in between guards and tyre, lower the car, start jumping on the car with your mate to 'pull' the guard out a little. Take book out and look at work. If you did it properly, it should no longer rub.

I'm not being a dickhead or anything about what I just posted. I've done it myself because the rubbing was so bad and the technique I used (and many other people) works.

Edit: Here's a picture of how mine went out. The tyre was originally sitting on the guard, or guard was originally sitting on the tyre. I used a pretty think book and this is how it turned out. The gap is too big now. :)

post-32186-1211537906_thumb.jpg

Edited by adam-__-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3890264
Share on other sites

No need to get someone to roll your guards.

The tools you'll need are a heat gun, jack, a yellow pages book and a friend.

Heat up your guard where you want it to be 'rolled', jack car up, put yellow pages book in between guards and tyre, lower the car, start jumping on the car with your mate to 'pull' the guard out a little. Take book out and look at work. If you did it properly, it should no longer rub.

I'm not being a dickhead or anything about what I just posted. I've done it myself because the rubbing was so bad and the technique I used (and many other people) works.

Edit: Here's a picture of how mine went out. The tyre was originally sitting on the guard, or guard was originally sitting on the tyre. I used a pretty think book and this is how it turned out. The gap is too big now. :)

post-32186-1211537906_thumb.jpg

how thin [or thick(not sure of your typo)] was ur book exactly?? was it one of these little sh*tty yellow pages??

if i do consider doin this i dont wanna screw it up

post-40509-1211545762_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3890478
Share on other sites

$50 a corner....thats cheaper than I have been quoted elsewhere, and I have to travel miles to get there..what hours are you guys available?

how much do you charge to borrow it?

and after it screws my paint and body work, do I get the hook ups with a reputable pannel shop that does good work for cash? LOL

Edited by 33gtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3890951
Share on other sites

how thin [or thick(not sure of your typo)] was ur book exactly?? was it one of these little sh*tty yellow pages??

if i do consider doin this i dont wanna screw it up

I first off used that sized book, but once I finished, it still rubbed so I tried it again with an extra book in between the gap, now it's too big... :P

Best thing to do would be to get a guard roller, but if you can't wait, the newspaper roll technique works and it doesn't crack your paint (it didn't on mine).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3890992
Share on other sites

i rolled my gaurds with a steel pipe

put the pipe in between the tyre an gaurd, depending on how much u want it rolled depends on the angle you put the pipe on (slightly=more horizontal heavy=more vertical)

start from one side of the tyre an fit the pipe inbetween the gaurg an tyre, the get a mate to push ur car forward, which then the pipe will move along with the tyre which then you push down to get your gaurd the way u like it...

if your not keen, habib above me has a good price..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3891331
Share on other sites

paint will only crack/peel if the guards arent heated properly...

best i got quoted was $80 for the rears

i'm just gonna heat em up and push em in with my hands

so where did u get this quote from?? sounds good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3891365
Share on other sites

i rolled my gaurds with a steel pipe

put the pipe in between the tyre an gaurd, depending on how much u want it rolled depends on the angle you put the pipe on (slightly=more horizontal heavy=more vertical)

start from one side of the tyre an fit the pipe inbetween the gaurg an tyre, the get a mate to push ur car forward, which then the pipe will move along with the tyre which then you push down to get your gaurd the way u like it...

if your not keen, habib above me has a good price..

Yep, I did this with my rear guards. Just make sure you've got a solid pole. I crushed 2 poles out of 4 trying to roll/flare my rear guards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220461-rolling-guards/#findComment-3891367
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...