Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have an r34 sedan non-turbo (not using turbo brakes like in the GT-V).

My rotors are in need of being replaced soon and I'm tossing up between slotted rotors or just the plain (genuine) ventilated rotors. I want to know if it is worth spending extra for the slotted rotors (DBA 4000 series) or if I'm just wasting my hard earned $$$. I'm intending to do all 4 corners. I mainly do city/freeway driving, on the odd occassion i take my car out to the Black Spur or the Great Ocean road for some fun (guys in Victoria would know these places :P )

Also wondering if there is a difference on the life of the rotor (slotted vs plain).

What are the recommended pads to go with the rotors? I was thinking bendix ulimates or would these be too harsh on rotors...

If your going to the trouble of changing the rotors, i would just put in slotted...

You really only need them in the front... however it does look better if you do all 4, and not just 2.

I dont think they are that much more from memory...

Just dont get the ones with the holes in them... augmented i think they are called, as disc around the holes tend to get fine line cracks due to rapid heating and cooling.

so ya +1 for slotted!

There are 4 types. Plain (no grooves or holes), slotted (grooves), drilled (holes) and slotted and drilled (obvious, isnt it?)

Slotted wear your pads down a lot more, but drilled are more prone to cracking. However, the drilled do allow for more venting, so they do serve a purpose

DBAs have a reputation for cracking, even their slotted rotors. I think most of the people doing it are doing it on the track though.

If you're only doing GOR and the Spurs you should be OK. I would assume, and hope, that you're not pushing your car to the limit on either road and overheating your braking hardware. There's not much margin of error available on either road, and with GOR especially help can be very far away.

DBAs have a reputation for cracking, even their slotted rotors. I think most of the people doing it are doing it on the track though.

If you're only doing GOR and the Spurs you should be OK. I would assume, and hope, that you're not pushing your car to the limit on either road and overheating your braking hardware. There's not much margin of error available on either road, and with GOR especially help can be very far away.

Thanks for the tip about the rotors cracking - its got me thinking :)

I try to be gentle on the brakes where i can by using a lower gear.

I wonder if anyone else here has experienced cracking fo non-track use?

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the tips guys. I've bitten the bullet and going for DBA slotted "4000 series" up front and DBA slotted "street series" for the rear. They are on order, I'll update you guys on what I think of them.

get slotted and drilled mate look so much better and a lot better performance, you will not have any dramas with them cracking unless your thinking about drifting or track days ?(unlikely being n/a)

You can also get them cryo dipped (ask your brake specialist about this)

+1 Slotted and Drilled (countersunk)

i havnt really heard much of a difference between the 2 unless u doin some serious racing but my point of view standered ventalated is arite. plus now brake pads dont use aspesdos anymore they use fine metal particals in the brake pad so rotars dont last as long as they used 2. slotted do look better if u got money go for it if not just go normal cause rotars some are luky to last 80000km.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
×
×
  • Create New...