Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this it not funny. how about in future if you see a thread posted in the wrong section instead of whoring it up as usual, hit report post and a moderator can move it to the relevant section? that would be much more constructive.

and for mark, if your GTST is completely standard I would say you can get away with 95 if you wish, but once you have a few mods like more boost, exhaust, tune etc then use of 98 is pretty much mandatory. and to be honest even in a standard skyline I would personally only use 98.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888627
Share on other sites

this it not funny. how about in future if you see a thread posted in the wrong section instead of whoring it up as usual, hit report post and a moderator can move it to the relevant section? that would be much more constructive.

I already had this morning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888666
Share on other sites

this it not funny. how about in future if you see a thread posted in the wrong section instead of whoring it up as usual, hit report post and a moderator can move it to the relevant section? that would be much more constructive.

and for mark, if your GTST is completely standard I would say you can get away with 95 if you wish, but once you have a few mods like more boost, exhaust, tune etc then use of 98 is pretty much mandatory. and to be honest even in a standard skyline I would personally only use 98.

Here here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888676
Share on other sites

98 is recommanded (& must for modded cars), but I think you can get away with 95 for fairly stock car.

Well I only use 98 (BP ulitmate & Vortex 98), a friend from work uses regular 95 on his 180sx & it seems to run fine.

Then again, his car does seem to sh*t itself everynow & then... not sure if its the fuel though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888815
Share on other sites

and for mark, if your GTST is completely standard I would say you can get away with 95 if you wish, but once you have a few mods like more boost, exhaust, tune etc then use of 98 is pretty much mandatory. and to be honest even in a standard skyline I would personally only use 98.

My car is standard, and pings a bit on 98RON. I would never ever ever put 95 RON in it.

They are designed for 100RON!! Why be so nasty to your car. If you can't afford to put the proper fuel in your car go buy a Charade. They go hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3890376
Share on other sites

I checked timing last night and it was a fraction advanced, now it's dead on 15 degrees. It's better, but still get a very small amount of knock at 3000RPM on 7psi (boost solenoid trick).

Spark plugs are tan coloured, so it could handle being a touch richer but they look fine for a standard engine. My exhaust is all standard, I would probably get some gains by getting a dump/front pipe and higher flowing cat. Since the skylines run richer once you open them up it might be just enough to make a difference..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3891425
Share on other sites

My car is standard, and pings a bit on 98RON. I would never ever ever put 95 RON in it.

They are designed for 100RON!! Why be so nasty to your car. If you can't afford to put the proper fuel in your car go buy a Charade. They go hard.

sorry but that is codswallop. :( they are not 'designed' for 100RON. I would love to know where these myths come from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3892997
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...