Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this it not funny. how about in future if you see a thread posted in the wrong section instead of whoring it up as usual, hit report post and a moderator can move it to the relevant section? that would be much more constructive.

and for mark, if your GTST is completely standard I would say you can get away with 95 if you wish, but once you have a few mods like more boost, exhaust, tune etc then use of 98 is pretty much mandatory. and to be honest even in a standard skyline I would personally only use 98.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888627
Share on other sites

this it not funny. how about in future if you see a thread posted in the wrong section instead of whoring it up as usual, hit report post and a moderator can move it to the relevant section? that would be much more constructive.

I already had this morning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888666
Share on other sites

this it not funny. how about in future if you see a thread posted in the wrong section instead of whoring it up as usual, hit report post and a moderator can move it to the relevant section? that would be much more constructive.

and for mark, if your GTST is completely standard I would say you can get away with 95 if you wish, but once you have a few mods like more boost, exhaust, tune etc then use of 98 is pretty much mandatory. and to be honest even in a standard skyline I would personally only use 98.

Here here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888676
Share on other sites

98 is recommanded (& must for modded cars), but I think you can get away with 95 for fairly stock car.

Well I only use 98 (BP ulitmate & Vortex 98), a friend from work uses regular 95 on his 180sx & it seems to run fine.

Then again, his car does seem to sh*t itself everynow & then... not sure if its the fuel though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3888815
Share on other sites

and for mark, if your GTST is completely standard I would say you can get away with 95 if you wish, but once you have a few mods like more boost, exhaust, tune etc then use of 98 is pretty much mandatory. and to be honest even in a standard skyline I would personally only use 98.

My car is standard, and pings a bit on 98RON. I would never ever ever put 95 RON in it.

They are designed for 100RON!! Why be so nasty to your car. If you can't afford to put the proper fuel in your car go buy a Charade. They go hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3890376
Share on other sites

I checked timing last night and it was a fraction advanced, now it's dead on 15 degrees. It's better, but still get a very small amount of knock at 3000RPM on 7psi (boost solenoid trick).

Spark plugs are tan coloured, so it could handle being a touch richer but they look fine for a standard engine. My exhaust is all standard, I would probably get some gains by getting a dump/front pipe and higher flowing cat. Since the skylines run richer once you open them up it might be just enough to make a difference..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3891425
Share on other sites

My car is standard, and pings a bit on 98RON. I would never ever ever put 95 RON in it.

They are designed for 100RON!! Why be so nasty to your car. If you can't afford to put the proper fuel in your car go buy a Charade. They go hard.

sorry but that is codswallop. :( they are not 'designed' for 100RON. I would love to know where these myths come from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220509-98ron/#findComment-3892997
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...