Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

The time has come for me to get a carbon fibre bonnet for my R33. Yet there remains two questions - 1) should I go full carbon fiber or the fiberglass one so that it matches my car's paint, 2) which one - see pics as I've narrowed it down to two options (the rest are gay as too many vents etc)...

Choice 1: Top Secret "T2" style - http://www.carmate.com/product_details.php...N&p_id=9772

Choice 2: R2 Nismo style - http://www.carmate.com/product_details.php...N&p_id=9742

Please let me know peoples.

Many thanks,

Kevin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220623-r33-carbon-fiber-bonnet/
Share on other sites

Kevin go full carbon fibre!

..And if it was me, i wouldnt choose neither of the two above.

How about something like this?

http://www.japsalon.com/Frames/00_R33GTS.html

(check under the heading bonnets and its the 1st one)

But then again its ur car and ur decision on what u like :D

I prefer the z-tine fins on an R33.

Also the 400R centre 'square' is a great shape to work with on a 33. The other ones just don't stand out enough IMO.

Sorry for reverting to the common styles!!! I dunno...follow your heart? :D

hmmm i rarely seen a R33 with the Z tuen bonnet aye lol danno about htat being common i got a Carbon fibre Z tuen bonnet for my R33 S1` in the shed :) haha cause its rainy weather and water gets into my spark plugs area but go Z tune style :)

Kevin go full carbon fibre!

..And if it was me, i wouldnt choose neither of the two above.

How about something like this?

http://www.japsalon.com/Frames/00_R33GTS.html

(check under the heading bonnets and its the 1st one)

But then again its ur car and ur decision on what u like :)

He Sis.,

You are recommending the bonnet below? I wouldn't have thought you would have chosen something more simpler unless I picked the wrong one...?

Thanks for your opinion - but I think it's too fancy with too many vents for my liking... :)

33GTR_TSBonnet04_small.jpg

We are receiving a whole bunch of hoods very soon, which includes the Z-tune style for series 1, if your interested?

Hey mate, I've responded to your PM - very interested... but can you please give price indications etc.

Thanks,

Kevin

hmmm i rarely seen a R33 with the Z tuen bonnet aye lol danno about htat being common i got a Carbon fibre Z tuen bonnet for my R33 S1` in the shed :) haha cause its rainy weather and water gets into my spark plugs area but go Z tune style :)

Hey mate, yeah the R2 Z Tune and the Top Secret T2 style is my pics - I'm leaning more towards the T2 at the moment but the R2 is nice as too... I will have to make up my mind as I'm ready to purchase one next month... have already made contact with some sellers on here...

Yeah, I was going to raise the same question - how bad is Carbon bonnets (with vents) and rain water... is it that bad? Which bonnets do not get affected by rain water, do you think?

To all: thanks for your opinions mate... if it's ok, can you please post up some pics with carbon bonnets on R33's?

Thanks....

I say go full carbon fibre. I had this full carbon bonnet on my 33.

Never had any trouble with water getting into the engine bay and i use to drive it all the time in the rain.

It had a small lip just before the vents to stop water from getting into my engine bay and i checked many times after a drive to find a dry egine bay.

If you want more pics pm me.

post-16070-1211670807_thumb.jpg

Hey mate you got pictures of it - never heard of it. Thanks.

um it's another name they give for the choice 2 bonnet, not alot of skylines have them on

the others one are way to common and imo looks the shits

um it's another name they give for the choice 2 bonnet, not alot of skylines have them on

the others one are way to common and imo looks the shits

Hey mate,

Do you mean this one?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2262/212198...525b116.jpg?v=0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...