Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed My Apexi Pod Filters

R33-RB26DETT
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I took my car to the mechanic and he showed me that my 2 air flow meter plugs where disconnected.. He said that this would affect the air flow mixtures and possibly even power output.

Since my car isnt running properly now there is no way to test if this would increase my power now that they are plugged in.

SO what affect would unplugged air flow meters have on a cars preformance, just more fuel bieng pumped into the engine yeah?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220638-installed-my-apexi-pod-filters/
Share on other sites
R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
rev limit = 2500rpm

I'm confused buddy, your saying that it would only rev to 2500 rpm?

But i was redlining it no problems, and it didnt feel like i had lost any power to be honest with you.

I didnt even notice the difference than from the stock air box.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

with standard ECU and standard setup if you unplug the airflow meters the RPM will cap at 2500rpm and it will be limp mode

there is no way known the stock ECU would run std maps with airflow meters unplugged, its suicide and the engine has no idea how much air is coming in

double check again or maybe you have some wierd remapped std ecu with a map sensor hack / hks vein setup or something look

look for map sensors and crazy wiring if thats the case

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

and are you sure he said air flow meters?

it could have been 02 sensors, they are on the dump pipes, the airflow meters are pink labelled plastic things on the air intake pipes

if it was the 02 sensors, the car will run fine, it will just waste a bit of fuel on cruise and your economy wont be the best - no power gain by reconnecting them

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
with standard ECU and standard setup if you unplug the airflow meters the RPM will cap at 2500rpm and it will be limp mode

there is no way known the stock ECU would run std maps with airflow meters unplugged, its suicide and the engine has no idea how much air is coming in

double check again or maybe you have some weird remapped std ecu with a map sensor hack / hks vein setup or something look

look for map sensors and crazy wiring if thats the case

Thanks man, i have gone an investigated everything you recommended.

First of all i must have a stock ecu as it has the Nissan seal is still on it:

But someone has cut a red wire from it and tapped up the end so it doesn't short anywhere.. what is this wire and why would they do this? take a look:

post-49206-1211601180_thumb.jpg

Also the i have circled in red the 2 plugs they found disconnected this morning:

post-49206-1211600948_thumb.jpg

I think we are getting closer to an answer thanks again!

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
see my pic - ive circled in red the true AFM plug, trace where the wires go

post-2054-1211604327_thumb.jpg

Good news i traced the wire back and its just the O2 sensor.

Ow well no extra power from plugging it in then.. :P

seen that red wire cut before on the ECU before?

cheers for your help buddy.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

no worries - yeah 02 sensors unplugged wont cause harm, but you should plug them in, get some better economy

the red wire could be anything - its probably the speed cut wire, does it the stock ecu cap out at 180km/h on the track?

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
no worries - yeah 02 sensors unplugged wont cause harm, but you should plug them in, get some better economy

the red wire could be anything - its probably the speed cut wire, does it the stock ecu cap out at 180km/h on the track?

Yeah thats what i thought straight away too.. i havent been to the track yet to test 180km/hr speed cut.

I really want to head down to the track actually so i might become a SAU paying member since i hear they organise heaps of that stuff quite frequently.

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The dudes got a PFC ne way so... :)

Actually dont have one yet, but i am trying to source one atm. Waiting on a few PM's from ppl selling on here.

Thanks for the confirmation of the speed cut wire too nismoid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...