Jump to content
SAU Community

Grinding Noise When Clutched Is Pressed In

hayden49
 Share

Recommended Posts

hayden49 Rising Star

hayden49

Posted
Posted

OK long story here, took my car (1996 r33 gt-st) to a workshop to get a new exedy heavy duty clutch put in.

When the work was finished the car was turned on and started making horrible screeching noises when the clutch was put in.

all the guys at the workshop said "must be the throw out bearing" as i had supplied a genuine nsk bearing with the clutch to be installed.

$300 later they had dropped the gear box again and replaced the throw out bearing and all was good. until today...

after driving about 50kms it has started making the grinding screeching noise when the clutch is pushed in.

Clearly these guys are incapable of installing and adjusting a clutch properly.

Apart from another dodgy throw out bearing what else could it be? i also gave them a new spigot bush to be installed as well.

When the car is idling in neutral there are no noises, but when the clutch is pushed in the grinding noises start.

Any help and opinions would be handy, as i plan to go back on monday asking for a refund and ill take the car elsewhere.

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

you supplied them a new throw out bearing and they didnt install it first time? Thats a bit slack. Did they even install the new spigot bush? possibly somethings not dissengaging properly.

I've got an exedy hd cushion and it will "grind" loudly first thing in the morning when nothing is warmed up when I ride it abit when reversing out the driveway. I just step on the clutch again to make it go away. Dissapears straight away as I drive off and is fine for the rest of the day, only first thing in the morning or when the car hasnt been driven for a while.

I dont like your chances of getting a full refund....but they should fix the problem at least free of charge.

hayden49 Rising Star

hayden49

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah they used the bearing i gave them but when the noises started happening they said that the bearing i gave them was faulty hence me having to pay for them to change it again.

but now that its still making the noise im going to ask them why i had to pay the 300 when the noise is still happening.

skylinekid Proficient

skylinekid

Posted
Posted (edited)

well for one u dont need to adjust it because its hydraulic.... have they greased the cage that the throw bearing slides on the outer part of the shaft and put a lil dab off grease on the pivot......???? think about that like ram ur cock in a virgin with no lube!!!!!!! lol yeh but also it could be the spigot wen u depress the clutch and the input shaft stops spining the spigot starts to work its magic b4 it is fitted bcuz its bronze (provided u didnt get a needle roller type) u should always let it sit in a lil tub of oil for a good hr and even wen fittin it may aswell give a lil dab of grease on the end of the shaft where the bearing would sit on it as to make sure it wont make the screeching noise???? id be tipping spigot bush mate but thats just my point of view....

Edited by skylinekid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...