Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Full set of Cusco coilovers, suit R32 RWD

R32 Nismo 2-way LSD

R32 GTR Bonnet, Burgandy

R32 Rose joint Castor arms, unknown brand

R32 3" Stainless exhaust, dump back

R33 GTR Wheels with RE55 semi slicks

Condition: Coilovers; As new.

LSD; Quiet and locks up good

GTR Bonnet; Bracing underside notched for intercooler piping.

Castor arms; Used but good

3" Exhaust; Very good

GTR Wheels; 1 good, 2 okay, 1 stone chipped. Tyres camber worn on outsides

Price: Coilovers; $1300

LSD; $1000

GTR Bonnet; $400

Castor arms; $200

R32 Exhaust; $400

R33 GTR Wheels; $1200

Location: Adelaide, South

Contact: PM, Email ([email protected]) or call Jay: 0432 050 676

Comments: All available for inspection in southern suburbs of Adelaide.

Coilovers:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/smi...nt/IMAG1352.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/smi...nt/IMAG1353.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/smi...nt/IMAG1350.jpg

Edited by smithersnt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220688-r32-parts-r33-gtr-wheels/
Share on other sites

all gear came off a drift setup rb25 gtst. it was driven in japan before it was cut in half and imported. no sure how old or exact spring rates. the shocks look mint, no surface rust on the threads. no leaks. look just like new. no c spanners. the car was gutted, i dont know if that helps with the spring rates.

I know its a fair low ball, but ill offer 900 for the coilovers. Let me know.

how about you just buy some isc or hsd coilovers instead.

castor rods

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/smi...nt/IMAG1362.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/smi...nt/IMAG1361.jpg

can send interstate at buyers expense fairly cheap.

Edited by smithersnt
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...