Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Old trick...

1 - Cut 2 X 2cm squares of chamois, make them just slightly damp.

2 - Find a socket that is about 1mm larger than required (it should just slip over the lock nut).

3 - Place Chamois square/squares over front of socket.

4 - With a rubber mallet (preferable) push the socket and chamois over lock nut (use some force)

5 - insert breaker bar and turn. As you turn the chamois will bite into the lock nut grooves.

PS - you may need only one piece of chamois or maybe three. Depends on the socket....

:)

  • 3 weeks later...

Tried that didn't work. I ended up bashing a smaller socket into the end of it which pushed metal up then bashed a bigger socket. The metal I flared out filled the gaps n got them off prick of a job

Sounds nasty :wacko:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I'm after a set of rims to borrow for a while as Im giving my work rims a propper clean up on my r34 gtt and need Rims as its my daily. There's a carton in it for you ;) hit us up with a pm if you have a set or msg me on 0432145854

Cheers guys

  • 1 month later...

thinking i need to buy new coilpacks,

if anyone has a good set for a neo 34 which i can swap into my engine for 10 mins, happy to pay you for your time.

worth testing before shelling out $600 for new splitfires

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
×
×
  • Create New...