Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Anyways, i'll take pics tomorrow, but regardless of the outcome, i'm gonna get some new plugs.

Do i need to spray them with something before fitting new ones?

Anything that needs to be done?

Just the normal copper ones are available from Autobarn, Supercheap etc ?

Whats the cost?

No nothing needs to be done providing they are gapped as you require out of the box. Just put them in.

BCPR6ES's come in 0.8's and 1.1's

id go the 0.8's if your running more than stock boost

Edited by DiRTgarage

Oh ok, damn.

Yeah i read something about the gap, and i have no idea what i require.

Oh, edit: (after comment above).

Ok done. I'll get them tomorrow (Y) excellent.

Approx Cost? Possibly no big difference but don't wanna get stupidly ripped off.

Edited by Owgasm

Standard its 1.1mm but if your running over 1 bar of boost sometimes it is necessary to close the gap slightly to say 0.9mm as the higher pressures can blow out the spark and cause it to miss under load/boost. By the way the bigger the gap you can afford to run the better as it gives you a bigger spark but like i mentioned sometimes its gotta be reduced to run well.

Edited by Godzilla32

it'll be like $25 for the set of copper plugs - dont fret its cheap as

0.8 you wont have issues - 1.1 might have issues depending on mods and fueling etc

worst case you can regap the 1.1's down to 0.8 if you know how. mist places will stock teh 1.1s and not the 0.8s so either or really.

still dont think shitty plugs will stop it from starting.

Re-gapping wont be a thing i'll do.

Alright, 0.8 gap if i can find, else order them in or something.

Even if it isn't the plugs, i think its about time i changed them, and from that i can start the search all over again but this time knowing it can't be the plugs.

Will keep everyone posted.

Your right 11 means 1.1. I wouldnt gap it down to 0.8 unless you actually need to. Your reducing the size of the spark which will affect combustion effiency. Like i said the bigger the gap you can afford to run, the better :cheers: By the way they do look black, hopefully it fixes the issue. Will be interesting to see the outcome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...