Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just boosted my 33 gtst today up to 9 psi (approx). when giving it a boot the car when hitting high rev's starts to backfire constantly and feels like it is pumping massive amounts of air through the exhaust as it shakes back and forth. The mechanic says i need irridium plugs... Anyone had this problem? I thought the car could be put up to at least 14 psi before needing spark plugs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22206-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

the cut i get is a boost cut.. computer controlled. My EBC is spastic in the way it works, I can never seem to get boost stable. And when I get up too 5000 rpm thats where I get the cut. like I can run 10 PSI (on the manifold gauge) but cant hold it at that over 5k rpm before the computer retards the timing and cuts your power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22206-spark-plugs/#findComment-477349
Share on other sites

What ever you do dont put iridium plus in. They are gay if your running more than stock boost!!!! even if you do waste the money dont gap them they heat up and corz the car to miss fire like all phark!!!! if you want good plus get some NGK Platnium and gap them to .08mm and youll be sweet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22206-spark-plugs/#findComment-477544
Share on other sites

So is it best to just gap my existig plugs (which are clean and have no probs with them) or buy irridium plugs? i dont care if i have to spend $$$ as long as i get the best parts for the job. I also hear that the stock plugs when boosted a lot can melt and stuff everything up?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22206-spark-plugs/#findComment-477564
Share on other sites

yeah invest in some NGK platniums then just get them gapped. Who ever puts them in should be able to gapp them for you. they are hell cheap plugs too depending on where you get them from. i know i can get a set of 6 for the price that you pay for 1 Iridium and they are better

I have used iridium and they are crap loss of ponies too was really dissapointed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22206-spark-plugs/#findComment-477626
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...