Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I was hoping someone could help with trying to maintain boost in between gear changes. It hits 16psi then drops right down to around 3psi. It takes a second or two and then gets back up there. Just not sure if this is normal for my setup which is as follows.

R33 GTS-t RB25DET

GT3540R .86

Turbosmart 48mm ext wastegate

Tomei poncams

Blitz SBC id3 boost controller

Apexi N1 exhaust/ hi flow cat

Fmic

all required supporting mods... makes 434 RWHP

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222175-boost-drop/
Share on other sites

Either of the two will help obvious double clutching will keep the revs up during changes but the atmo bov kills boost as vents air instead of recirculating.

there wont be a difference in how boost is held between an atmo and recirculating bov, they both do the exact same thing bar the obvious part where on recirculates back into the intake

its normal for a turbo that size to take a second to respool inbetween gear changes. If you dont have a bov at all, that can cause the turbo to "lag" inbetween gears due to compressor surge, so get a nice sized bov thats going to breathe well and that should help.

Other than that, theres no real streetable solution, unless you like flat changing, antilag etc etc, its just the joys of having a large turbo on a smallish displacement engine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222175-boost-drop/#findComment-3915317
Share on other sites

Well you'd think that but how many people do you notice running insanely low psi gate opening or insane high gate psis? heaps..

So if it opens to early leaks, opens/doesnt open well/dose etc means boost is going to drop off because air is not correctly exiting the system.

Dont forget youve got that gate on there.. spring??

sorry i couldnt make out any of that lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222175-boost-drop/#findComment-3915353
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply.....yeah should have said. It has an atmo BOV with a soft and hard setting. I think it may be on too soft. I will adjust it and see what happens. It was on the car when i bought it...is the adjustment option just a rice thing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222175-boost-drop/#findComment-3915422
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply.....yeah should have said. It has an atmo BOV with a soft and hard setting. I think it may be on too soft. I will adjust it and see what happens. It was on the car when i bought it...is the adjustment option just a rice thing?

adjustment option will be for your bov spring to suit your vac/boost. if it's too tight it will comp surge, which is why they can be adjusted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222175-boost-drop/#findComment-3915434
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...