Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically what im asking is, if i start with a stock good nick rb30 bottom end, what is the cheapest way to get it running in my 32. ie using whatever i can from the 32/rb20.

I can remove block and fit myself, do basic wiring etc.

Your thoughts greatly appreciated, obviously not chasing mega power out of it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222182-cheapest-way-into-an-rb30/
Share on other sites

and the SAFC will need to go. dont half as doo the job and get a monster rb30 conversion and only run a SAFC.

and you defiantly will need a bigger turbo. i suspect you running into alot of boost creep/spiking issues with the 3L bottom end and running such a small turbo. at least go for a gt30

25DE head, good condition bottom end (get the crank reground just for peace of mind, cost me $120), I've got forgies but I got a good deal on a block/piston/head setup.

Use everything off your 20 (25DE intake manifold ports are slightly larger but it's only a bee's dick worth).

I'm running a 25s1 turbo which I had on my 20. Becomes a major restriction at about 5800rpm where it falls over harder than it climbs. Could have lent on it a bit more but would have only caused to turbo to fall over sooner.

Making a super torquey 183rwkw with 12psi by 2200rpm.

I had it running on the standard ECU but needed to use a group-buy remap chip I had because it was hitting R&R pretty much straight away.

I was also maxxing the AFM at about 6000rpm.

So, I got myself some 550cc injectors and a z32 afm and had my ecu remapped with a bit of a tune to throw in a bunch of fuel down low so it didn't lean out when it came on boost hard.

Quite fun to drive but should be a lot more fun with the GT35R strapped on the side :blush:

As far as wiring goes, if you use an R32 RB25DE head, everything plugs straight up. We did my conversion in a weekend and I drove it home very early Monday morning on the stock ecu :D

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...