Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i just bought my new car and the previous owner must have had a field day with the electrics...

Problem List.

I have a Master Switch to give power to car and a button to start the car...

My dash lights, parkers and taillights turn on via fog light switch on dash (turns boost gauge back light off)

Normal switch on dash turn head lights on...

Head unit is a JVC-DVD Head unit (KD-DV4306) It has 2 RCA outs and im trying to run a

4 channel amp, do i need to buy a new head unit and what plugs do i plug from the HU-AMP

I get plenty of interference from car noise (revs and shit... you know what i mean) the RCA cables are

running down the centre of the car and the power cable is running down the drivers side of the car they

only meet under the back seats. Do i need to run these as far away from each other and how do i get rid

of this interference? These are all new cables which i have ran myself and the kit prob set me back $60 if

that helps at all... Is it the amp itself? If i buy a 5 channel kicker amp would i need to grab a new Headunit?

Hey thanks for any help im pretty puzzled!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222298-few-car-audio-questions/
Share on other sites

Ok i just bought my new car and the previous owner must have had a field day with the electrics...

Problem List.

I have a Master Switch to give power to car and a button to start the car...

My dash lights, parkers and taillights turn on via fog light switch on dash (turns boost gauge back light off)

Normal switch on dash turn head lights on...

Head unit is a JVC-DVD Head unit (KD-DV4306) It has 2 RCA outs and im trying to run a

4 channel amp, do i need to buy a new head unit and what plugs do i plug from the HU-AMP

I get plenty of interference from car noise (revs and shit... you know what i mean) the RCA cables are

running down the centre of the car and the power cable is running down the drivers side of the car they

only meet under the back seats. Do i need to run these as far away from each other and how do i get rid

of this interference? These are all new cables which i have ran myself and the kit prob set me back $60 if

that helps at all... Is it the amp itself? If i buy a 5 channel kicker amp would i need to grab a new Headunit?

Hey thanks for any help im pretty puzzled!

To cancel out the noise buy some ground loop isolators. although the fact that you only spent $60 on the wiring kit suggests poor quality cables so i would be looking at getting some good quality RCA's too. As for the amp if you plan on running a sub i recommend getting a headunit with sub out. (should be 3 pairs of RCA's in the back of headunit. 1pair front 1pair rear 1pair sub. if you only have 1pair it can all be run but wont sound as good and all balancing will have to be done on amp only balance on headunit would be left right.

you puzzled me with all that stuff.. what are you chasing with all that lol..

your rca's can't run near ANY electrics.. IF by any chance you do then cross at 90deg to each other.. but yes better rcas and isolators will reduce noise..

move your rcas down the passanger side, everything else i could make sense of has been handled by nissanskyrice

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

For others, also check the size of the grounding cable on the Battery, I did a complete install in my R32 GTR, and the ground on that is slightly smaller than an 8 guage wire, which is completely inadequite qwith a 4guage power feed for the Amps alone, let along the rest of the car's electronics.

My sugestion would be on cars suffering from engine noise, get a custom earth kit from somewhere like FHRX Studios, and make sure all your grounding points are adequite.

B.

just a question how do u find the headunit has it lost memory at all when u turn ur car on. i had 1 of those dvd players and it was always loosing memory even with the constant power wire straight 2 the battery.

If this happens, you might have the wiring around the wrong way:

I.E Yellow is meant to be connected to Constant 12v+

Red is meant to be connected to 12v+ when Acc is turned on

Black is meant to be Constant Ground/Earth.

Some people have accidently switched the yellow and the red, and this doesn't effect the player when you test the on/off function, because the it's being fed 12 volts to the Acc to turn on, but doesn't have a constant 12v so it's off, but then when you turn the key to Acc, it feeds the constant 12v and thus power's up as normal.

Problem is, the constant 12v is what feeds power to the headunit to hold it's memory, without this, you loose memory every time you shut the car off.

B.

If this happens, you might have the wiring around the wrong way:

I.E Yellow is meant to be connected to Constant 12v+

Red is meant to be connected to 12v+ when Acc is turned on

Black is meant to be Constant Ground/Earth.

Some people have accidently switched the yellow and the red, and this doesn't effect the player when you test the on/off function, because the it's being fed 12 volts to the Acc to turn on, but doesn't have a constant 12v so it's off, but then when you turn the key to Acc, it feeds the constant 12v and thus power's up as normal.

Problem is, the constant 12v is what feeds power to the headunit to hold it's memory, without this, you loose memory every time you shut the car off.

B.

yeah but it never done it all the time and i had it wired up correctly i had the constant 12+ running straight 2 the battery 2 bypass the imobilser and everything. it would sumtimes do it every time i turned the car on but most of the time it would hapen like the 6th time the car would b turned on. also workin at supercheap ive also had a few others come back with the same problem and the were wired in by profesionals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...