Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u all say that porting an rb20 head doesnt flow much but im flowing not much more then a rb26. i did think of this before i started and me and the engine builder talked it all out and made sure it could flow easily enough for what i wanted. and i still got my rev happy rb20 that i had reving to 9500 rpm and didnt skip a beat that what i had it built for with the turbo my power band doesnt start till about 5500 rpm but it worked great till the belt snapped. but the head is getting fixxed and isnt cosing much its just the block which im still unsure about. and legal bullshit that i prob about to go threw with the belt company which i dont know who to speak to about it

: dave here:

umm. 5k on head? pics of said 5k worth of work?

dude put it in the bin and start over...... and a snapped belt after 100kms? sure you wernt getting coil bind on the valve springs? what cams were they? and lift?

what springs were used?

that head is rooted, just get another one and start again. or, get a stock 25 with nothing done to the head and get the same power.... :P

what is coil bind. lift i dont know but they r reground gtr v spec cams and 100kms it was a manufacture fault in the belt and now the whole fix is under warranty but the fix is for standard rebuild but im puttin 26 crank and stuff thou it

so the "new" belt snapped.... was it over tensioned?? because if it wasnt, id be callin the company up and gettin warranty on the shit.

faulty worksmanship :thumbsup:

edit: im a lil late i think lol

Edited by Bumblebee

:Dave here:

its where the spring is stacked solid.. ie to much lift for the standard springs.. you are using uprated valve springs arnt you? 5k on a head id assume you had some nice oversize valves and solid lifters?

what were the STOCK RB26 cams reground to?

i dont know the exact specs but i will find out tuesday orr wednesday but from memory about stage 2 for a gtr and all the springs and lifters were to suit it he reckons that i could rev over 10g rpm which i would never try even if it can

the poor ole rb20det is still underated but a damn good engine ,with the right work done to them they can make good power mine made just a tad over 300rwkw with a smaller turbo than the one you have and ran an high 11 quater mile so if you spend the dollars the power is there

Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...