Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you want to be sure that your turbo is going to be safe then run 12 if you go above this its not the best thing for the ceramic exhaust wheel as it can finish in your exhaust but i know guys that run 14 and still havent had any probs, i am making 204rwkw at 12 psi and use EBC as it is a much safer way of controling your boost

yeah its pretty well covered in some of the threads mate......i personally have been adviced by some of the guru's of imports that on a stock RB25 turbo dont go past 12 psi....12 psi is the safe boost level....anything above that will reduce the life of the turbo big time.....i have mine on 10psi on a r33 s1 and i reakon that is plenty of boost for me.....

I've only had my R33 for about 4 months now and am new to forced induction. but how do you increase your boost? do you have to run a boost controller or can you just go to a place like boostworx and get them to put it up for you? thanks :(

you need a bleed valve or electronic boost controller (a bleed valve is a type of manual boost controller).

Unless you have an accurate boost gauge (the factory one is NOT), and some decent mechanical knowledge (which, no offense sounds like you don't), take it to a workshop and get them put in a device for you and set it up.

I've only had my R33 for about 4 months now and am new to forced induction. but how do you increase your boost? do you have to run a boost controller or can you just go to a place like boostworx and get them to put it up for you? thanks :(

Hey mate....i wont go down the road of a bleeder valve...ebc is the way to go but make sure that its all tuned properly

i have an rb25 turbo on my rb20. its happy as a pig in shit at 13psi, i get 199 at the wheels with re-mapped ecu

The RB20 uses a fair whack less air than the rb25. As a result the shaft speed/backpressure/power/airflow etc is all less for the same given boost pressure.

14psi is fine with the rb25 turbo on the rb20.

The rb20det turbo on both the rb20 and rb30 (with 25 head) made ever so slightly more power with the 25 head but with ~4-5psi less boost.

The bottom end makes no difference to peak power as that is governed by the head.

An RB20DET with 14psi should be making similiar power as to an RB25det with ~10psi according to what I've seen with mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...