Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i got a r33 i have a problem wen the revs get to 4 grand the boost jumps up to 13-14 psi and cuts out and plays up until redline, up until 4 grand it runs 6-7 psi no problems, i did have a bleed type boost controller on there i thought that may be the problem but its not, i have recently put a front mount, pod,splitfire coil packs, new fuel filter and new plugs nothing has fixed. i tried the search option but nothing has cum with my similar problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

mate it wont run 10psi it will run 6-7psi upto 4 grand then jump up to 14 psi after that, itook my boost controler out i thought it may have been that and now iam running standard boost controler, but it just wont hold boost after 4 grand

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-3928752
Share on other sites

what boost does it run if you hook a pipe straight from the intercooler pipe to the actuator (don't use the pipe with the restrictor in it) if it holds boost ok then your stock boost solenoid is hooked up wrong, if it doesn't you actuator is probably stuffed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-3928893
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

well changed the actuator no luck, put a 3 inch dump pipe on aswell earlier in the week made heaps of difference until the boost problem any ideas please its really starting to p**s me off, or would it b best to buy a different turbo, if i go that way i would to geta highflowed item.

Edited by bwebbie1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-4145151
Share on other sites

well changed the actuator no luck, put a 3 inch dump pipe on aswell earlier in the week made heaps of difference until the boost problem any ideas please its really starting to p**s me off, or would it b best to buy a different turbo, if i go that way i would to geta highflowed item.

hi,

just curious ... did you gut your cat? are you running a standard cat or hi flo? as I have the same problem which started after I gutted mine and installed a JJR split dump/front pipe.

regards Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-4145198
Share on other sites

I am going to put a cat back on the system and see if that sorts it out... I think the exhaust runs too freely now and the gasses from the wastegate dont get to merge with the main pipe effectively which causes the over boosting... x fingers .. have already dropped the split dump pipe and ground out the wastegate side so waste gate opens freely so isnt that... will let you know how i get along.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-4145411
Share on other sites

Read thru this thread, might help.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...26#entry4144426

If you’re running a jjr/ebay split dump/front pipe then you will have boost spike issues.

At 13-14+ psi the stock ecu will R&R anyway so it will feel like it dies after 4500rpm, you may even hit boost/fuel cut at that stage. Bleed type boost controllers have a very common problem of boost spikes, if you want steady boost I’d look for a gready EBC, apexi ect for steady boost levels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-4145807
Share on other sites

hey guys this is problem a dumb question but wen we installed the front mount the problems started so we were thinkn that we might have the intercooler around the wrong way??? is this possible that the flow is not wroght or doesnt it matter??? cheers thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-4161200
Share on other sites

It doesnt matter what way the intercooler pipe is.. try a good boost controller, an electric one... not apexi either a blitz, hks or greddy

could be the dump pipe but it sounds like youve had 2 dumps pipes on and the boost played up with booth?? was the first one stock?

can you chek to see if the actuator can open fully with the dump pipe on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222880-boost-problem/#findComment-4161246
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...