Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day I have got a few questions to ask re auto to manual conversion on a r33 s1. I have done a search and can't find the info i need.

Q1 When placing the clutch pedal in do I have to remove the plate on the firewall covering up the clutch pedal assy. Or do i drill the plate using it as a template? I had a quick look today and it looks like i will have to pull the dash out is this correct or am I making more work for my self?

Q2 I bought a spiggot bush from REPCO and its awfuly tight, so tight in fact I can't get it started to knock into the back of the crank. I don't know if I have got the right spiggot bush or is there an auto bush that must be removed first? From what I can see there is a brass bush in the crank and it looks as though the manual spiggot bush should fit inside it.

Q3 Does anybody know what wires i have to bridge out so i can run the as normal using the auto computer? Does the auto wiring harness fit the maunal gearbox or do I have to modify it? If so does anyone have any diagrams?

Cheers any help would be much appreciated. Like I said I had a look throught the forums but couldn't find the answers to these questions. Please help if its to hard to explain please pm me your number and i will give you a call.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222934-auto-to-maunal-conversion-r33-s1/
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

I know I may be bringing up an old thread but I'm doing something similar on my r33 series 1.5.

Want to know how to remove the auto spigot bush! It's not coming out!

Cheers in advance!

I know I may be bringing up an old thread but I'm doing something similar on my r33 series 1.5.

Want to know how to remove the auto spigot bush! It's not coming out!

Cheers in advance!

Fill back of crank with grease, Get a brass drift that matches the ID of the spigot, stick the drift in the hole and whack with a hammer.

Science happens and the bush pops out.

Auto spigot was an absolute bitch to get out, either use the grease method, or drill into the sides of it and cave it into itself with chisel and pull it out.

I tried to use a 3 jaw puller on it, but there wasn't enough of a lip for it to grab, drilling into it and caving it in on itself however worked perfectly :)

Yeah it's an absolute prick!

I have done research on the grease method and understand it fully. It seems to work s treat on the manual spigot bush as there is space behind it where the incomparable substance can push the spigot out however with the AUTO one there is no space behind it so I don't think the grease method will work?

Anyone here removed the rb25det auto spiggot using the grease method? I'm starting to think to use a tap or grind it down and collapse - just done want to damage any of the crank.

Thanks guys. So can I confirm something. I've done heaps of manuals before which are the brass spigots. With the auto's they have the steel spigot (pictured here on the outside) with my chisel marks on it.

There is like NO gap between it and the crank. So grease will push this bastard out? post-36645-14283929476667_thumb.jpg

In theory yes, but i did this about 2 weeks ago and the auto spigot was almost sitting flush with the crank, i could hardly feel the lip with my finger let alone get any tension on it with a tool or puller or anything, drove me absolutely insane

I'd suggest drilling one or more holes in the front face of it horizontally in line with the engine to weaken the circle and then caving it in on itself from the top. I tried just chiseling it, but being a perfect circle very tightly pressed into a hole it's incredibly supported/strong and you'll find it will either chip the spigot or your chisel! :/

Wish i knew that before starting mine, almost went insane lol

So I tried the grease method this evening with NO luck I used a 3/8 extension and a 9/16 socket which was perfect inner diameter. It did not budge a bit...think this is because I had a good go a bashing it prior. The extension just kept spitting back out of the socket. Looks like I will drill it out and cave it?

Yes. Um. What? My 9/16 socket is 20mm OD. As far as I can recall, the OD of the auto spigot is ~20mm and the ID is significantly less. So how the hell is any 9/16 socket supposed to fit inside the auto spigot bush?

From what I'm hearing, it sounds like THERE IS NO SPIGOT BUSH installed in that crank.

Yes. Um. What? My 9/16 socket is 20mm OD. As far as I can recall, the OD of the auto spigot is ~20mm and the ID is significantly less. So how the hell is any 9/16 socket supposed to fit inside the auto spigot bush?

From what I'm hearing, it sounds like THERE IS NO SPIGOT BUSH installed in that crank.

Hey man, have a look at photo above.. That is the 10mm deep auto spiggot is it not? And my apologies all it was a 13mm socket. Edited by H@ME

All done.. Manual conversion completed. Used a 3mm drill but and cold chisel to remove the auto spiggot. Used a 32mm hole saw for the clutch master in flywheel. Was perfect. All done now. Wasn't that hard!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...