Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i got screwed with my new highmount turbo set up the mechanic i took it to stuffed it real good he made his own gasket out of some crap which looked like paper and went every where in my motor, he used the wrong boltz which melted on my head i had to spend well over 1500 dollars to get his mistake fixed not bloody happy never going back to him. its hard to find some one to do your car down in here in tassie

^^ you already know the answer :)

Correct.....that's 2 of us now that have been shafted by that mob......and the only reason I went there in the first place is cause he used to be a so called mate.

I used to work on my Rex in his workshop many years ago and drink beer with him all day, now you can't put 1 foot in his workshop.

I've kept quiet for the last couple of months but obviously its time for my rant because he's burning others as well.

Having a Dyno doesn't make you a tuner. When a car is belting out that much black smoke out of the exh that you cant see the car in the workshop, you stop revving the shit out of it (hoping that it'll clear up eventually) and check your settings on the PFC.......try changing the injector values and latencys to accept the bigger injectors and maybe select the correct AFM values.

When a lower hose blows off the intercooler 4 times, you don't keep tightening it up with bigger clamps until it crushes the alloy pipe, you cut off your crooked pipe and re-weld it back on straight.

When an exhaust comes in with no rattles and leaves the workshop banging against the fuel tank and leaking through a hole in the brand new Cat, you do the job again, properly.

No clamps or ties on vacuum lines, fuel regulator squirting petrol all over the engine bay, I had to tell him how to re-route the fuel line onto the different bigger fuel rail, his old man kept bashing iridium plugs against a steel bench to reduce the gap but ended up squashing all of them then levered a screwdriver against the very fine wire electrode of the iridium (absolute NO NO on iridiums, you never touch the electrode, $150 plugs) until I jumped in again and told him how to do it..........I had to baby sit these guys when I should've found someone with a hoist and mig and done it myself.

But to add salt to injury, he quoted me $1000 for all the bolt on work and 1 day to do it (Shaun at Boostworks was a similar price, maybe a tad dearer). It took 3 days to do the job and when I went to pick it up the price doubled to $2000. He said that nothing was straight forward (derrrrr, is this the 1st GTR he's done) and that I couldn't take the car away until I paid him.

I'm really tempted to get legal with this guy and serve him personally then drag him before a small claims magistrate (up to $5000 without lawyers).

is this bloke a fellow brother :) then no let it be if he isnt then pursue the matter further if your feel that is needed otherwise you have to try and live with the fact that you chose a mate over Shaun

i know that isnt a definitive answer but i think you know what needs to be done

is this bloke a fellow brother :) then no let it be if he isnt then pursue the matter further if your feel that is needed otherwise you have to try and live with the fact that you chose a mate over Shaun

i know that isnt a definitive answer but i think you know what needs to be done

Like I said earlier, I have kept quiet about this for awhile now and have paid various other workshops to fix his stuff ups.

i used to be mates with the business owner of this mentioned "tuner"

when they where at the old shop, seemed like a good bloke, but then again, he was only doing a zorst on my VT.

would never take my line there, not after what adam told me.

This is why I do alot of my own work.

I have the knowledge and the tools. My old man was the head mechanic on the Datsun rally team in the 70s and avid motorcycle racer. My uncle a drag racer. I'd like to think I've been brought up right around mad-scientist-machinery. I know a ring spanner from a blow torch, so I do my own work when I can't trust anyone with my ride.

:)

This is why I do alot of my own work.

I have the knowledge and the tools. My old man was the head mechanic on the Datsun rally team in the 70s and avid motorcycle racer. My uncle a drag racer. I'd like to think I've been brought up right around mad-scientist-machinery. I know a ring spanner from a blow torch, so I do my own work when I can't trust anyone with my ride.

:)

Yeah me too, I have a full workshop of tools that were gathered over almost 20 years of work at Adelaide Engine Service. So I too can build a bike or car from scratch but because I work so much these days, I don't have the time to do any major work (bike was built during 'graveyard shifts') and being self employed it costs me more to take time off work than to pay someone else to do the work.........I still don't like being shafted though!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...