Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i got screwed with my new highmount turbo set up the mechanic i took it to stuffed it real good he made his own gasket out of some crap which looked like paper and went every where in my motor, he used the wrong boltz which melted on my head i had to spend well over 1500 dollars to get his mistake fixed not bloody happy never going back to him. its hard to find some one to do your car down in here in tassie

^^ you already know the answer :)

Correct.....that's 2 of us now that have been shafted by that mob......and the only reason I went there in the first place is cause he used to be a so called mate.

I used to work on my Rex in his workshop many years ago and drink beer with him all day, now you can't put 1 foot in his workshop.

I've kept quiet for the last couple of months but obviously its time for my rant because he's burning others as well.

Having a Dyno doesn't make you a tuner. When a car is belting out that much black smoke out of the exh that you cant see the car in the workshop, you stop revving the shit out of it (hoping that it'll clear up eventually) and check your settings on the PFC.......try changing the injector values and latencys to accept the bigger injectors and maybe select the correct AFM values.

When a lower hose blows off the intercooler 4 times, you don't keep tightening it up with bigger clamps until it crushes the alloy pipe, you cut off your crooked pipe and re-weld it back on straight.

When an exhaust comes in with no rattles and leaves the workshop banging against the fuel tank and leaking through a hole in the brand new Cat, you do the job again, properly.

No clamps or ties on vacuum lines, fuel regulator squirting petrol all over the engine bay, I had to tell him how to re-route the fuel line onto the different bigger fuel rail, his old man kept bashing iridium plugs against a steel bench to reduce the gap but ended up squashing all of them then levered a screwdriver against the very fine wire electrode of the iridium (absolute NO NO on iridiums, you never touch the electrode, $150 plugs) until I jumped in again and told him how to do it..........I had to baby sit these guys when I should've found someone with a hoist and mig and done it myself.

But to add salt to injury, he quoted me $1000 for all the bolt on work and 1 day to do it (Shaun at Boostworks was a similar price, maybe a tad dearer). It took 3 days to do the job and when I went to pick it up the price doubled to $2000. He said that nothing was straight forward (derrrrr, is this the 1st GTR he's done) and that I couldn't take the car away until I paid him.

I'm really tempted to get legal with this guy and serve him personally then drag him before a small claims magistrate (up to $5000 without lawyers).

is this bloke a fellow brother :) then no let it be if he isnt then pursue the matter further if your feel that is needed otherwise you have to try and live with the fact that you chose a mate over Shaun

i know that isnt a definitive answer but i think you know what needs to be done

is this bloke a fellow brother :) then no let it be if he isnt then pursue the matter further if your feel that is needed otherwise you have to try and live with the fact that you chose a mate over Shaun

i know that isnt a definitive answer but i think you know what needs to be done

Like I said earlier, I have kept quiet about this for awhile now and have paid various other workshops to fix his stuff ups.

i used to be mates with the business owner of this mentioned "tuner"

when they where at the old shop, seemed like a good bloke, but then again, he was only doing a zorst on my VT.

would never take my line there, not after what adam told me.

This is why I do alot of my own work.

I have the knowledge and the tools. My old man was the head mechanic on the Datsun rally team in the 70s and avid motorcycle racer. My uncle a drag racer. I'd like to think I've been brought up right around mad-scientist-machinery. I know a ring spanner from a blow torch, so I do my own work when I can't trust anyone with my ride.

:)

This is why I do alot of my own work.

I have the knowledge and the tools. My old man was the head mechanic on the Datsun rally team in the 70s and avid motorcycle racer. My uncle a drag racer. I'd like to think I've been brought up right around mad-scientist-machinery. I know a ring spanner from a blow torch, so I do my own work when I can't trust anyone with my ride.

:)

Yeah me too, I have a full workshop of tools that were gathered over almost 20 years of work at Adelaide Engine Service. So I too can build a bike or car from scratch but because I work so much these days, I don't have the time to do any major work (bike was built during 'graveyard shifts') and being self employed it costs me more to take time off work than to pay someone else to do the work.........I still don't like being shafted though!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...