Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when drifting and trying to bring the radius of your turn down a bit sometimes you need to bounce it....

mine is set to 7400 and has been there a number of times... never missed a beat... and yes... 25's are cheap enough :)

the idea of rev limiters and tachometer shift lights go hand in hand, when you change gears you want the engine rpm to fall back right into the middle of the power/torque area when the motor is just at its peak power levels...(where the hp and trq curves meet/intersect or are closest to each other...within reason of course)

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear.

My SR for example dies off at the top, but at 7000rpm in 2nd gear I'm still making more torque at the wheels than I would be at 4800rpm in 3rd. so I change as late as possible if I'm edging every bit out of it.

my avcr says that mine goes to 7500 quite often, is there an easy way to to remove the limiter, the sooner i blow this engine the sooner i get my arse into gear and build my self a big banger.

Shift into 2nd gear while doing 180km/h should give you an epic failure.

but i still want the rest of the car in one piece.

drive it without any oil lol :) you'll be amazed how long it lasts lol

i need to have some reusable bits left over, like the block.

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear.

+1 for this.

Re: rev limit, i'd say stick the stock rev limit if you've got a stock bottom end. If you stay off the limiter and have a good tune it should last a long time. Anything higher than that and the risk of damage increases. And its not a linear increase either - IIRC its a square increase, ie the stress at 6000rpm is four times the stress at 3000rpm, not double as you might suspect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...