Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks for the part numbers guys but i went down to nissan yesterday and they could not help me.

first off i gave them the part numbers for the mirrors that are posted here, eg 96366-4P000 but they could not find any of the parts.

secondly i gave them my VIN number the WGNC34001.....etc and also the 6U90WGNC34001.... but yet they could not bring up any info on that VIN either.

the guy said when the cars are imported, the Australian authorities stamp on their own VIN, however this WGNC34 number is stamped on multiple places on the chassis

the only other plate is the blue one with japanese symbols so i will try again with those numbers

your vin needs to be 6 digits wgnc34-123456. But they should have been able to find with part #, give them the alternate part # (which is most likely an updated part as the old one wouldnt be used anymore) 96366-4P060. Even try a different Nissan dealer, i never have any problems with my part #s in Brisbane (metro nissan) or Gold Coast Nissan, they are very accomodating for imports.

rofl.

well, if any stagea's have the balls to enter SAUWA's timed track day, I will even be able to tell you how much they get chopped by a "gutless" 4 cyl ;)

Anyway, if you are past 21, you cannot drive a hatch. Not even if you equip the damn thing with a rocket engine. :(

not too much luck at the local nissan, the guy managed to pull up some info.....he quoted me about 120 for the glass, 250 for the folding mirror motor, although he couldnt be certain on these prices....but he was certain it was 600 bucks for the whole assembly. no guarantee that they could get the parts either

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • First time, battery connected, then I went to disconnect it (thinking maybe the battery is fked). Both times, HUGE sparks went flying and shit started to glow 🥲 I'm planning to do that next, unplug the alternator. Just a bit of a pain in the arse due to the plenum and DBW, but needs to be done. Threw sparks even when I just touched the +VE jump point, even before letting go of the clamps.  Good point about the amps, there's a 8 gauge going to a fuse block that splits into 2x 12 gauge.  Going to be a fun process of elimination   
    • Random thoughts, is it possible positive jumper lead was touching either that metal box, or the oil line beside it? And just double check with battery disconnected there cables/connections aren't touching/resting on car body/other conductive material. It could even be an amp cable has come lose and is shorting, however I suspect you have fuses close to the battery for amp power supply and they would have popped (though if one only have melted, it could be why you have a higher resistance to earth now and it's not popping, so I'd double check amp wires/fuses)
    • Thanks for the kind words! Feel free to ask anything, anytime. Cheers. 
    • Haha thanks! Our 4 seasons here are a great motivator to get things running for the summer season. 
    • When they started to glow and crazy sparks, was the battery still in the car and connected to POS and negative? What sort of battery is it? (Lithium, lead acid, etc?) Is it possible you stuffed up the jump start and managed to get both POS and neg cables on a dead short through the skyline?   Check the resistance again, then disconnect the power cable on the alternator, and then measure that same resistance from POS pole to earth. Then measure alternators POS pole to alternator body (with cable disconnected). Do the same on / with the starter motor.
×
×
  • Create New...