Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Like the topic title says , i have a r33 s1 manual, just wanted to know what should the oil gauge sit at when cold and when warm? it sits at almost 8 when cold and then drops back to about 5 when warm, does runs fine just has a little miss on idle (which im working on atm to get diagnosed)

Any help would be great Thanks guys

PK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223926-oil-pressure-gauge-in-r33-s1/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Like the topic title says , i have a r33 s1 manual, just wanted to know what should the oil gauge sit at when cold and when warm? it sits at almost 8 when cold and then drops back to about 5 when warm, does runs fine just has a little miss on idle (which im working on atm to get diagnosed)

Any help would be great Thanks guys

PK

Hi there, if you are worried you should be able to get your guage & sender unit checked by an instro tech in your neck of the woods, whether your measuring system be of the mechanical or electo/mechanical variety. Cold & hot oil pressures would depend on oil type for starters, existing wear on pressure bearing (pardon the pun) surfaces & oil pump efficiency kick in after that.

Oil pressure guage is reflecting degree of difficulty that oil pump is having in forcing oil through oil bearing surfaces. IE., it is measuring back pressure. The thing to be aware of is deviations from what is normal in your engine as no two motors/oil pumps will have exactly the same characteristics. Neither will two different (same make) pressure senders/guages unless they have been checked/calibrated on an "approved" type of test rig.

If your system is not displaying repeatability or is unreliable on any two given startup cold/warm run sequences then I would be getting the guage/sender checked first with a view to replacement then looking elsewhere if the measuring system proves up. But if your pressure comes up the same all the time in the two different states (cold/hot), you have not changed oil brands/types/viscosities & your engine is not complaining then I would not worry.

You would know yourself or at least have a fair idea when your motor is getting tired & in need of a birthday...........right?

My 2c, hope it helps.

GW :woot:

Thanks heaps guys.

260 tech i should get it checked but yeah it does do the same all round, idle prolly sits on 3 and driving about 60kph goes to about 4-5, i was wondering, is high oil pressure good or bad? If my engine has higher then normal oil pressure is this a good or bad sign? I would imagine high oil pressure would be good?

Thanks heaps guys.

260 tech i should get it checked but yeah it does do the same all round, idle prolly sits on 3 and driving about 60kph goes to about 4-5, i was wondering, is high oil pressure good or bad? If my engine has higher then normal oil pressure is this a good or bad sign? I would imagine high oil pressure would be good?

As its already been said they arent that accurate... buying and installing an aftermarket one would be the best and easiest opition to get piece of mind.

What kind of oil you running?

If the stock gauge is correct, that is running a little bit high. Better to run higher then to low. :happy:

Thanks heaps guys.

260 tech i should get it checked but yeah it does do the same all round, idle prolly sits on 3 and driving about 60kph goes to about 4-5, i was wondering, is high oil pressure good or bad? If my engine has higher then normal oil pressure is this a good or bad sign? I would imagine high oil pressure would be good?

Yup, so would I be happy with high oil pressure, providing always that the reading is not rediculous/off the clock. If the numbers you are quoting are accurate pressure wise for your motor & repeatable then I would not be worried. Quite happy in fact, particularly with idle pressure if that is on a warm engine. End of the day if you think it is all too good to be true & your engine is suggesting otherwise (rattling like a @#$% at idle) then get your system checked out. You don't need to get your system calibrated, get a test guage fitted & a chart of the results (idle kpa/indicated, 2000rpm/3000/4000 etc) so that you are aware of th inherent accuracy or otherwise of your system.

That's all.

Cheers GW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...