Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

my r34 is siting like a 4wd and im really interested in lowering it. i only want to lower the back becausae the front is a good height but on the backs my tires a 245/35s so im gonna get my guards flared. All i need to know is what you guys recomend... Like where to get it down, what price im looking it at...... i live in melbourne, much appreciated people

thanks in advance

kyle :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223936-flared-guards/
Share on other sites

Depending on how your wheels sit, I think all you'll need is a roll.

PM 180athid on the forums. He does guard rolling and does a very good job. I think he charges about $45 per guard to roll and I'm not too sure what he charges for a flare, but I would guess $55+. PM to get a more accurate price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223936-flared-guards/#findComment-3944031
Share on other sites

Rolling guards is just folding the lip that hangs out from under your guards flat against the guard itself. Flaring is folding that lip and continuing pushing the guard out so that the guard is 'stretched' in a way. Rolled guards shouldn't be noticed unless you're looking from right underneath your guard. Flaring you should be able to notice.

I'll try to get a few pictures though just to show you what I mean.

Edit: Alright, here's a picture of a guard before it was rolled,

image040ln9.jpg

Here's the after it was rolled,

image038ou7.jpg

Here's another of before and afters.

image051jg4.jpg

image054ym0.jpg

Images were stolen from a user on ae86dc.

Here's a flare, you should be able to notice the difference between these cars standard.

dsc03250vk3.jpg

drift6co4.jpg

Hope that helps.

Edited by adam-__-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223936-flared-guards/#findComment-3944294
Share on other sites

hmmm hopefully thats all i need but i want to flare my guards as well

so i need the best places in melb that does it

any one recommend any place with good experience

Which side of Melbourne are you from? If you're from the east, I'm always hearing good things about Micolour in Moorabbin. If from the west, I always hear good things (usually on NS.com) about Primal Garage.

A little search in the Vic Section will give you more information on where these places are located.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223936-flared-guards/#findComment-3944300
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...