Jump to content
SAU Community

A Huge Thanks! 476hp At The Wheels!

N1GTR

By N1GTR,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted
lol, daves tyre was crazy!

Dont forget Victor spinning off the track on those brand new semi's

oh yeah that too! "oh yay i spun again, spinning is the best bit"

crazy little mofo

If all goes to plan i think i will be making a trip to an open day some time in october

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
oh yeah that too! "oh yay i spun again, spinning is the best bit"

crazy little mofo

If all goes to plan i think i will be making a trip to an open day some time in october

lol, yeah he's a nutcase

Let me know when - ill come and have a go aswel :(

Nice work Steveo good to hear its back on the road, I hope to have mine done by Xmas.

Should I bring a broom for Wakefield this weekend or will you be able to contain yourself?

Ive got some spare bits left over if you're after any strange bits

Can you bring one please? Dont forget your apron this time :D

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
i blocked off one of the restrictors only, theres a few rb30's without them that run fine.

Have to wait and see what it will be like with constant high revs

I wouldn't sweat it mate. plenty of high power RB26s running fine without an external oil drain. as long as things are done properly. block off a feed, and get the internal oil returns ported out a bit and cleaned up so they flow more. much easier and seems to work very well. that's what I've done with my donkey. I might still add an external return to be safe, but if you do ad one, try and put it in the right spot. just replacing the rear welsh plug like so many do is not the way to go.

silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
Posted (edited)
I wouldn't sweat it mate. plenty of high power RB26s running fine without an external oil drain. as long as things are done properly. block off a feed, and get the internal oil returns ported out a bit and cleaned up so they flow more. much easier and seems to work very well. that's what I've done with my donkey. I might still add an external return to be safe, but if you do ad one, try and put it in the right spot. just replacing the rear welsh plug like so many do is not the way to go.

yeh i've also been told since im not running a rb25de i dont have to worry about the extra feed to the head

get my new exhaust mani next week, you should of seem the extent of the cracking in my so called "trust" manifold.

Edited by silver gts-t
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
OH

MY

GOD!

hahaha very happy for ya mate, i'll have to make a trip to Syd again, I wanna see your beast on the road!

I wouldn't be planning that trip any time soon..... :)

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So whats the damage Steveo, anything major?

Dont know yet, its sitting in a garage all dirty - ive got to clean it tonight (or tomorrow) and call the mechanic a bit later today to see about the next step. Id prefer to pull it apart where it is now cause anything out of place......well.......will look clearly out of place, but that may affect the warranty so im not touching it (and neither is anyone else) until i know what will affect the warranty and what wont

OH

MY

GOD!

hahaha very happy for ya mate, i'll have to make a trip to Syd again, I wanna see your beast on the road!

lol, you missed it - but thanks heaps spanna :)

its a replica of what i had on, just made from 4mm steam pipe instead and as i've been told the collector is bigger etc etc

Sick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...