Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i made sure it wasnt tuned to its peak just incase of situations like these were i could run optimax or premium unleaded if C16 wasnt available, ( which it wasnt).  so conclusion being, i ran 11.5 still with traction problems on prem unleaded, not at its maximum potential. :kick:

Well if you were still able to run the car at full throttle, through all the gears, at maximum load (as per drag racing), with PULP with that tune and NOT get severe detonation, then all you did was WASTE a tankful of C16 last week :(

Why in the world you would pay $150 for a drum of C16, and then get it tuned so you could run PULP???? :):D

Robo,

The amount of wheel spin I was getting was very noticeable from inside the car, the back end was wiggling around all over the place through 3rd and even in 4th, so much so that the commentators made mention of it. The other lads there watching could hear/see it too.

Well if you were still able to run the car at full throttle, through all the gears, at maximum load (as per drag racing), with PULP with that tune and NOT get severe detonation, then all you did was WASTE a tankful of C16 last week :(

Why in the world you would pay $150 for a drum of C16, and then get it tuned so you could run PULP???? :(:)

i like your comment about "Why in the world you would pay $150 for a drum of C16, and then get it tuned so you could run PULP???? " its an easy answer, ( casue i can)....... :rofl: :rofl:

but seriously at full throttle in 3rd gear it was fluttering a little, but not detonationg, either cause of sparks i changed just befor racing or the tune, will try again soon and see what happends.

Guest INASNT
Robo,

         

The amount of wheel spin I was getting was very noticeable from inside the car, the back end was wiggling around all over the place through 3rd and even in 4th, so much so that the commentators made mention of it. The other lads there watching could hear/see it too.

I word man NITTOS.

i like your comment about "Why in the world you would pay $150 for a drum of C16, and then get it tuned so you could run PULP???? "  its an easy answer, ( casue i can)....... :( :(

I suppose you thought you'd come away sounding rich and powerful from that (because you know.... None of us can afford C16), but instead you came across as a chump who has absolutely no idea about cars or tuning. :slap:

how can u tune a car for c16 but still be able to run pulp fuel when u want and still have no problems.....what comp are u running? who is ur tuner? wreckedhead? (if u tune for pulp fuel u would get to a point where it has reached its limit because of its octane rating.....when on c16 the octane rating is alot higher therefore a more aggresive tune....how do u accomadate for both, without comprimising max power or detonation im just a little confused... ?? plz explain

how can u tune a car for c16 but still be able to run pulp fuel when u want and still have no problems.....what comp are u running? who is ur tuner? wreckedhead? (if u tune for pulp fuel u would get to a point where it has reached its limit because of its octane rating.....when on c16 the octane rating is alot higher therefore a more aggresive tune....how do u accomadate for both,  without comprimising max power or detonation im just a little confused... ?? plz explain

Exactly.

The car should be tuned with so much ignition timing for C16, it would pretty much grenade itself if you ran it at full noise with PULP.

So basically the tuner doesn't know what he's doing, and wasted all that C16 by tuning such a stupidly large margin of safety into it that wreckedhead was able to run PULP on the same tune, effectively wasting all that C16.

amu,

It's amazingly simple to tune for C16 and then run pulp. It's achieved using an ECU that allows multiple maps. It literally takes all of 5 sec's to switch from the 98RON map to the C16 map to the LMS map to the cod liver oil map (ok so that last one is stretching the truth a tad). I have 4 maps in my handset that I select from depending on what I'm doing. At the drag strip I select my "Valet" map, hmmm.... maybe that's why I can't seem to rev over 3,000rpm!? :)

But seriously... if wreckedhead is using an ECU that has a multi map option then he CAN use C16 and make full use of it. Just as easily he can fill up with 98, select his 98RON map and be safe in the knowledge the timing is not overly advanced (depending on how agressive the tune is). If wreckedhead has only one map to choose from then I'm as baffled as the rest of you!?

whatsisname, amu and Merli:

JETT is running a Power FC tuned by C&V.

Does that answer some questions?

Adrian

Nope.

Unless he has an FC Datalogit with the ability to store and load multiple maps, there is no way he should have been able to use PULP on a proper C16 tune.

i might be a little neive but im not stupid when i had the tune done i made sure it wasnt tuned to its peak just incase of situations like these were i could run optimax or premium unleaded if C16 wasnt available, ( which it wasnt).  so conclusion being, i ran 11.5 still with traction problems on prem unleaded, not at its maximum potential. :kick:

Interesting. No mention of multiple maps :)

Too many holes that I can't figure out... I'd love if you're able to explain it to me wreckedhead, because I'll obviously learn something about tuning if you're honestly able to make what you're claiming...... work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...