Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

steering is heavy as a fat chick...

drifting is controlled and predictable

steering shouldn't be any heavier....

have u disconnected the hicas ecu? coz that will fark with your power steering up front too.

didn't touch power steering... just the lock bar...

there is a few people on here that have exp'd the same :)

R32 or R33 GTR? And did you disconnect the HICAS ECU?

The tutorial explains how the installs are done in the tutorials section of this forum, R33 should not be an issue, not too sure about R32's.

I did a fair bit of reseach on this, as I was having trouble with the Hicas shuting down on wet days, the power steering would die along with it, all attempts to fix it were only temporary, so it had to go.

From what I read at the time (06) the lockbars on a 33 would cause the pwr str to either die out because the hicas was disconnected or be restricted (it was never clear to me which) and also nobody had any to sell me, so i bought the Tomei kit which locks the hicas physically and reroutes the hicas with another unit, pwr str works fine and no interference from a computer when the hairy stuff happens.

If you have ever dropped a long side skid with hicas, it will kick the car back the opposite way ie you cant drift.

If the steering is heavy or craps its selt its because you have not removed the hicas correctly.

Before after I much prefer no hicas; much more predictable and the steering actually feels a tad lighter and more willing/easier to make corrections mid corner.

Kicking the car back etc is a load of crap; the rear steer is so little it will not kick the car back just make it feel not as predictable.

The 4-door R33's have no HICAS but they do have the power steering ecu in place of the HICAS/PS combo unit. Is it advisable to lock the HICAS unit and then change the HICAS/PS Combo ECU to the Power Steering only version from the 4-door models. That should eliminate whatsoever HICAS problems with R33's. Please confirm on this.

Most of the HICAS problem i've heard are from R32's cause of hydraulics, the R33's are electronic which makes it easier to eliminate.

Edited by teng

he did install one but the hicas light wouldnt stay off and his steering was heavy all the time! So he out the standard one back it just plays up everynow and then nothing to do with the steering wheel as it was acting strange b4 he put the new one on! It's not the power steering fluid anything else to check?

I have a 32 and removed the whole system. The car drives so much better. Pretty sure when i was reading that for a 33 you have to either remove the warning light from your dash or cut the wire going from your hicas ecu (under the parcel shelf) to the dash light. Someone correct me if im wrong. But leave the actual ecu connected or u will get heavy steering. Deffinately comes up when u search anyway.

he did install one but the hicas light wouldnt stay off and his steering was heavy all the time! So he out the standard one back it just plays up everynow and then nothing to do with the steering wheel as it was acting strange b4 he put the new one on! It's not the power steering fluid anything else to check?

Did he follow the HICAS tutorial in the relevant section of the site?

I'd say no, because his power steering stopped working AND he didn't remove the globe, of course when HICAS is locked the warning light will go on.

Does he have an R33? Did he attempt to disconnect anything inside the car? (Don't!)

Note: before installing the lock bar the warning light would come on, mainly after highway driving and the car would feel strange while its on. There are ways to run the HICAS diagnostics but I just removed it and the car feels better for it now, I'll find out how much next track day :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...