Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update!!

Hey guys. thought i would update the thread.

I bought this car off the previous owner a few months back. I previously owned a black r31 coupe rb20 silvertop, but i had a minor mishap and ended up selling, so i now own this baby. I've got a few plans for it including some fresh paint, some more power and some handling upgrades.

Iv'e done a couple of minor things to the 32 since ive bought it, mainly cosmetic.

-Genuine Gtr bonnet (black)

-Genuine Gtr grille (black)

-Full amber indicators (Gtr look)

-Nismo gear knob

-Front strut brace

things going on the car in the very near future (already got, just gotta put on)

-Bosch 040 fuel pump

-GFB mechanical boost controller

-Remapped computer (jeff from the speedlab)

-New dash cluster

and here's a pic of it how it sits at the moment. Just ordered premium (CC) square plates front and rear for the complete jdm look.

IMG_0024.jpg

Edited by Greasy
  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cheers man. hopin to eventually get a respray in the new year, while im at it get the guards rolled and lipped all round and fit some lower offset dish wheels :D most likely gonna go with a silver respray with a black roof. mmm hot.

BOSCH 040 fuel pump successfully installed today.

Much thanks to the tutorial in the diy section for 'Installing A Bosch 040 Fuel Pump Into An R32' thread by eXc. copied it exactly, worked first time no issues. :D

also installed new rear speakers, will finish the rest of the system within a week or so.

Now for-

rising rate fuel reg,

remap,

possibly 2 stage electronic boost controller, (profec b II)

twin 3" straight pipes from muffler back.

Iv'e Had a chat to a few people, rising rate fuel reg won't be needed, and electronic boost controller is only needed for higher boost applications (will only be running 11-12 psi through the factory neo turbo) or if i really wanted two boost stages but if i'm only gonna be running 12 psi max then theres no point in having dual stage, as the bleed valve will be safe enough.

Having thought about these factors, and from what people have said, coilpacks should be the next mod on the list as RB's are prone for having problems with them.

so that means the list is now:

Mechanical bleed valve

Remap > 11~12psi > 210kw+

Twin straight pipes

splitfire coilpacks. (eventually..)

The remapped ecu that i bought recently is tuned for a s2 rb25 running standard turbo, bosch 040, 3", cooler etc. same as what i have on 10psi making 209kw with a continuous power curve. I am taking the ecu with me back to jeff from the speedlab (local tuner who has a very good reputation for safe yet very good power figures) to get it set up specifically for my application running hopefully more around the 12 psi mark. so i don't think im too far off thinking that it should still make at least 210kw. we'll see what happens once i actually get it tuned. :P

Installed an autometer sport-comp boost gauge today ready for when i get it remapped. Next to do will be high flow cat and twin straight pipes (from the first muffler back) should look and sound a lot tougher. then remap.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...