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im sick of replacing axles

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broke ANOTHER axle....f**k

this was the 2nd lap, in the rain, at Nikko

what is thicker at the mounting surface that will fit out cars?

i have a 180sx axle as a temp replacement. that one was a silvia axle.

any ideas?

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you are running a s14 subframe arent you. did u break any before u did that mod. i see that it is the cv joint that has gone all destructo on you. is it possible that the narrower track has changed an angle that the axles rotate at and put to much strain on the cv's. im thinking of putting the s14 subframe in my car to reduce the track and get my tyres to fit under the guards a little better but im worried that it might bring them to close to the suspension or will the struts move inwards enough to keep the same clearence.

sorry i cant help you out with any thicker axle ideas

nah this was in a new stagea subframe.CV boot messed up becuase the part it attatches to is mangled....ill have some more detailed pictures today when i unload my car from the trackday

No, see I was going to say that you should look into getting a GTR rear cradle (coz the driveshafts need the centre to use) but its not really the axle you need to strengthen, its the CV joint. It may still be worth looking into.

The problem you have, is the running gear in the S1 is the same as the R33 GT-4 and they don't have the same "meatiness" about them as the gtr, because the R33 GT-4 was only ever released with the NA RB25. To prove this, just compare a front driveshaft from a GTR to a stagea, and you will see that the stag ones step down in diameter before the diff, whereas the GTR ones don't.

really....thats interesting

but converting to GTR subframe, arms, suspension lowers, diff is out of hte quetsion

I can get custom axles/cv/drievshafs for 500.00 in the US that are super duper beefy

i was trying to find maybe a skyline, or other axle that would hold up a little better without HUGE changes

anyone have this happen to them?

i did the same thing, though i snapped the axle itself, i converted to 32 gtr rear diff and axles/hubs/brakes :) have a read ofthis thread i did years ago on the conversion... (that was my old username)

the gtr uni joints are massive compared to stagea ones, theres some measurement figures in that thread if u take a look...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/st...diff+conversion

on the gtr size axles/unis ive ran a 11.3 at drags and done 20-30 8500rpm launches on them and not broken any yet :) the side which is custom length is also made at home by my old man and its lasted which is funny as i expected it to break years ago. Im currently putting over 550hp at wheels through the stock gtr gear.

Edited by unique1

like i said

i can get massive custom axles for that much

no reason to do all that work.

im wondering if maybe R33 GTST may be bigger, or cefiro, or some other massive car

or even 6bolt vs 5 bolt axles

All of the following have the same size drive shafts (or axles)

S13 (and 180sx), S14, S15, R32, R33, A31, C33. I can't comment on R34, but I suspect they would also be the same.

All of them are the same size (though some may have 6 bolt pattern as opposed to 5 bolt pattern where they join to the diff), except for the GTR models. The GTR has a thicker driveshaft, and as a result a larger spline where it enters the wheel hub.

You don't need to change the diff/subframe etc to use GTR driveshafts. Providing your car has 5 bolt pattern on the driveshafts, the GTR ones will bolt up to your diff. Then the only problem is the spline difference.

I can't comment specifically about stageas, but I would bet my left nut it is going to be the same as the skylines/silvias in the design of the rear hubs.

There are 3 parts to the hub assembly.

The hub carrier (or upright), is the cast iron piece that your suspension arms and struts bolt onto.

The backing plate, contains the drum style parking brake (if your car has one) and acts as a stone guard to the brake rotor

The hub itself, holds the wheel studs, the bearing is contained inside the hub and the spline from the driveshaft is engaged with the hub to transfer power to the wheels.

On all of the above mentioned models, the hub assembly is designed the same way, that is the hub is bolted onto the upright with 4 bolts and the backing plate is sandwiched between the two.

The R33 models and the GTR's use a different method of bolting the suspension arms to the upright, which makes them incompatible unless you want to go swapping your whole rear end out. But, they still both use the same method to bolt the hub itself to the upright, which means that the GTR hub will bolt onto an upright from any of the above mentioned models.

Edited by daisu

its fixed

the diff was all f**ked up

the guy i bought it from put he wrong output shafts, ring gear and a few other things

after 350 bucks its a brand new diff pretty much, no more clunking and im bound to bet no more broken axles

  • 1 month later...

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