Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know a reputable business in Melbourne/Victoria that could undertake an engine conversion project for me? Has anyone heard any good reports/bad reports about any businesses that have undertaken for yourselves or people you know?

I'm trying to find someone to do the work for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22516-engine-conversion-specialists/
Share on other sites

Ahhh, that would be highly confidential.

It should be a problem though, it's just upgrading an smaller engine to a larger factory engine that was an option on this vehicle. Unfortunately, the original owner did not option the larger engine however, so that's now for me to do.

Unless you post what the conversion is, it will be difficult for anyone to suggest anything. Like what car (yes, we can assume that it is a skyline, but as they say 'assumptions are the mother of all fck ups') engine, transmission etc etc. Additionally, if you actually post the conversion, there is bound to be someone on the forums who has done it - SR20 into R32, RB26DETT into R33 GTSt, RB25 into 180sx, RB25 into silvia. Not to mention stroker RB30s and other monsters... ppl are here to help and will probably save you $$$. But hey, if its classified, thats ok :P

i guess, is200 -> is300tt(2jz-gte/1jz-gte)?

well that was what i thinking everyday anyway :)

i am towards 1J conversion as it's cheaper

and my aim is only 400hp

both of the engine will reach it easily

but the problem is there is no factory fit 1JZ is200

only 2JZGE(N/A) is300

it seems stick with the 2JZ will give me better resale ability

what do u guy think?

it seems will be 1 of the best car down the track, from what i see from the JGTC - last year or 2 years b4. The N+ RS200 with the 3SGE get a result of No. 4 in the whole class. Beat the group 3, 4 bigger power car like S15, S2000. and it was only 1 sec slower than the group 1 R34 GTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...