Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, So I want to purchase some swaybars. I contacted a sponsor on GTRC and he told me about the Tanabe ones. They would run around $450 CAD (approx $466AUD) without shipping from Japan. Now I am also interested in the Whiteline swaybars, because they are adjustable to my needs and the Tanabe ones are static. My car is currently being built up as a hillclimb track car, so the more fine tuning the better. I also have a fair amount of body roll with my KYB shocks and RS*R springs and I want to pretty much eliminate it.

I was just wanting to know how much the adjustable Whitelines (beefy the better) with urethane bushings would run with Shipping to Vancouver, BC, Canada. If there are any sponsors here who can hook me up with a full price quote and approx ETA to ship them here that would be awesome!

Car is a 1992 HCR32.

Thanks,

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225258-whiteline-swaybars/
Share on other sites

Yup get in touch with a member on here called sydneykid. Good guy that's been doing group buys/distro for the past few years. He's super busy and his PM inbox may be full, but just keep trying and it'll get through. There are threads in the For Sale (Group Buys) forum as well, so you can post there too.

Yes I got in contact with him. He PM'ed back, hopefully we can figure something out with shipping because if I read correctly he was quoted $450 JUST for Shipping to Vancouver, Canada.

Crazy. The main problem is there are NO swaybars in Canada, so they would be either coming from Japan or AUS. So either way I'm going to be paying out of my arse.

Yes I got in contact with him. He PM'ed back, hopefully we can figure something out with shipping because if I read correctly he was quoted $450 JUST for Shipping to Vancouver, Canada.

Crazy. The main problem is there are NO swaybars in Canada, so they would be either coming from Japan or AUS. So either way I'm going to be paying out of my arse.

Buy Ozzie mate. No contest. :)

Cheers, GW

Oh, I had no idea you were in Canada. Should've read the whole post. :) Surely you can do better than sourcing from the other side of the world? None available in the US? They're odd shaped items so shipping will likely be pricey from all distributors this side of the globe.

Edited by HuH

Try the Whiteline Canadian distributor;

PDM Racing Automotive

Contact: Don, Colin, Jon

6993 Antrim Avenue

Burnaby, B.C. Canada V5J 4M5

Phone: (604) 430-4512

Fax: (604) 430-4513

web: www.pdm-racing.com

email: [email protected]

Or the US one;

Global Performance Parts

4554 - 128th Ave

Holland. MI 49424. USA

Ph: 616 399 9025

Fax: 616 399 9174

Web: www.globalperformanceparts.com

Zach Thomas - Whiteline Product Specialist

Email: [email protected]

Glenn Dirkse - Whiteline Product Specialist

Email: [email protected]

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...