Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Over the last few days I've been having a good fiddle with my suspension setup trying to get the car lower and balanced.

Basically what I've got are standard springs and Bilstein adjustable shocks. The spring seats were on the higher of the two circlip grooves, so I took the shocks out and moved the circlip down to lower the car that little bit. For my first time, it was a seriously annoying process. Eventually I got it all done.

I noticed then that the driver's side was sitting lower than the passenger side. I know that this sag does happen over the life of a car (and mine is 16 years old) so I thought what I'd do is switch the sides over to get it closer to balanced when my body weight is on the driver's side.

So I pulled all the shocks out, and made double triple sure that they were matching heights, and swapped them over.

Anyway, finished that and measured it up again and the driver's side is still sitting lower than the passenger side by about 10-15mm or so at the front (rears are almost identical).

What else can cause this sag? Worn bushes? Something else? Would love any help. Ideally I'd love to get the passenger side sitting down as low as the driver's, but if it's something that's worn then obviously that won't work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225279-drivers-side-sagging/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem mate. My drivers side was 10mm lower than the PS, so i just compensated by raising and lowering the circlips on the shocks. It now sits even.

I was told that cars of this age flex, sag, twist etc so its not that uncommon. Its unusual, however, that your rears are the same height and its only the front thats sagging. I actually had to work diagonally by raising the DS rear 1 groove and lowering the PS front 1 groove to get my desired height.

Shaun.

^^^ obviously :D

The difference is generally 3-4mm, park it on a road it'll look level, park on a flat peice of concrete it won't measure level.

Track springs are not the same...tracks have little to no camber, sports springs...some brands are some aren't.

Road springs.....

Edited by madbung
Left and right springs when new are generally a different height..it's to allow for the amount of camber built into roads, so the car can track correctly.

I've never heard of this before, i dont think thats true at all.

What car do you know came out with different driver+passenger side springs?

I've never heard of this before, i dont think thats true at all.

What car do you know came out with different driver+passenger side springs?

Does it sound like something I just made up? Or do you think it may well be something you have never heard about before?

Go search your vast bank of knowledge again, maybe you just missed it.

Answer to the question...all production cars have a bias, whether it's done via springs or other methods (it's so the car can track correctly on cambered roads-thats all roads) unless they have after market suspension.

I really am getting pissed dispensing sound advice, then having to explain it to the third degree.

I think I'll quit..

To the guy with the problem, springs will wear on one side of the car more than the other because it's under more load due to the camber built into roads. So if it's only a couple of mm it's normal.

Edited by madbung

I'm not questioning your theory, I just want to know what's causing it, as it isn't springs in my case. I explained in my first post that I have swapped the shocks and springs over but the drivers side is still sagging lower than the passenger side. My question is, what causes this as it cannot be the springs themselves.

Edited by HuH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...