Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey if i got caught doing 100+ in a 60 zone it would serve me right too!!!

I recently got done for 80 in a 60 zone downhill in a work car, because i was in a bad mood and not concentrating. It was bloody stupid and serves me right for not concentrating.

What sort of area was it in?

i've been on 1 points for the last 14 months, and yes the laws are a joke atm. i think it's an undermine policy to get all of us into public transport. as for my last point it's only in danger if i pull over and yes i do speed on the rd and i'm not ashame about it. FARK the law. and anyone here think that they don't speed,is being a hyprocrite.

i travels a fair bit doing my day time job and i can tell u one thing speed is a cause of some srioues accidents and have claim lives, but nothing evens remotely come close to inexperience, and by tightening the speed limits get the whole community in one go, but it will never removes the attrition rate. we are humans in the end. and to treat humans as a constant and getting results is the same as the likelyhood of seeing the pope giving birth to a son.

james... all you do is whinge about your loss of license.. dont think you can comment.

and in not all cases does 100 in a 60 zone take much loss of concentration. I was doing 108 in a 60 zone.. i over took a car doing 40 and pulled back in and was doing that speed. Was actually an 80 zone, but we r waiting to go to court on that one still..

anyway - its true if u do the crime u do the time.... no harm in whingiing tho :)

yeah i was done for 157 ina 60 zone 2 years ago, and got my license suspended for 1 day and $350 fine.

i got done for 112 in a 60 zone, which is 8 points,6 months and $700. Then got caught doing 80 BEFORE the 80 sign on the ramp for the icb.

yes i was speeding, but ****ing hell if you know how stressful things have been for me in the last 2 months you would have killed yourself.

but now I have time to play computer games, work only 12 hour days(im at work now btw) and not able to get up to the police station to pay my fines because i cant afford to get a taxi everywhere.

It's an arrestable offense when u don't pull over and gun it up the rd, and if u have made the choice never look back and get as far away as possible from ur last point of contact, and also prolly pay to visit a local park or nearest town house complex.

anyone made that choice? I know I did once, saw a patrol car going the other way on a two land divided road. We made eye contact, I saluted :upurs: and planted it...just kidding, We both knew he cought me speeding but I had a median strip between us, so I took about 5 turns into a residential area, straight up someones driveway into there carport, headlights off, head down, sparked up a smoke. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...