Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, Ive had my 93' 33 gtst now for about 2 n half years n its boring me. Ive been waiting for the time n cash to do it up a bit, now i have it(soon).Would this be suitable: 600hp+ turbo, new h/d clutch, f/m cooler, microtech ecu, bigger fuel pump n bigger injectors. What size injectors n pump are suitable? Is there something else i need? Ive got a 3.5" exhuast right through already n thats it, the rest is stock. Ive been out of the scene for a while n need updating if im missing somthing people are putting on to theres these days. This is n still will be daily driver.

Cheers for the feedback.

turbo is too big IMO for stock internals. also wont come on boost until probably 5000 RPM.

biggest turbo I would recommend would be GT35 rated at 500HP, even then would probably be too laggy for a street car.

ok then, apparently this particular turbo i was "gunna" get was an 'ATR45', i dont know anyhting about them or heard of it. Ive been told it was rated at .70 - 600+ hp. It is going to be dyno tuned so wouldnt they be able to do somthing about that then?

How much approx is a gt35 turbo n piping going for?

sorry, you said that would be too laggy aswell. Can any1 gimi as yell on a good turbo n housing (not piping) for me. I want somthing that is going to be strong n powerful that will be worth getting for the other mods im getting

ok then, apparently this particular turbo i was "gunna" get was an 'ATR45', i dont know anyhting about them or heard of it. Ive been told it was rated at .70 - 600+ hp. It is going to be dyno tuned so wouldnt they be able to do somthing about that then?

How much approx is a gt35 turbo n piping going for?

not much you can do to tune it to hit boost earlier.. advance the timing a lil maybe but it can be risky..

that kit looking at $3.5k+

hks gt-rs mate.. or just go hi flow if you want to save a bit for somethings special..

Hope im not sounding too dumb but id like the car to boost up still about wot the stock one does. The hks would do that would it?

Go for a HKS GT-RS or a Garrett GT2860RS (Disco Potato) for a quick street RB25, thats what id do anyway.

You will lose a little bit of low down response, but gain loads of midrange and top end.

Or if you want even more lowdown response, but a bit less top end, just mod and high-flow your current turbo like whistle said.

Have a look in the RB25 dyno thread, thats the best way to work out what you are likley to need to suit ur needs.

Hi there.

I notice your new to the forum.

If you read the Dyno Sticky thread at the top of this section, you'll see results from many various turbo setups.

Golden rule is - more power you want, more lag you get. A 600HP turbo is never going to come on even remotely close to a stock turbo, yuor talking 4500rpm or there abouts

Have a read of the sticky thread, and also the FI Guide (just below it), once you see a setup you like with a turbo that seems to fit what you want, have another search with that turbo. Plenty of threads detailing HKS GT-RS, Garrettt 3071/3076, Trust TD06/TD05 series and so on.

Thanks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...