Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

my skyline is pinging around 2000rpm threw to about 3000rpm dose any one have any idea what could cause this i have changed plugs. running v power. put some octane boost in. im thinking possable the timeing as put it on comp an the timin angle is 5%.7

thanks

martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225862-skyline-pinging/
Share on other sites

i just wounderd if any one had experinced the same or similer prob.its hard to describe exactley wat its doin inless u drive it.

would you recomend anywere or no anyone in newcastle area??

thanks for all the advice.

martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225862-skyline-pinging/#findComment-3980039
Share on other sites

15 degrees is what the timing should be at.

If its at 5 degrees, deff get it checked out by a mechanic who looks after imports.

Dont go to nissan as they will charge you thru the roof and probably wont know what to do since they dont work on skylines everyday like other work shops..

Or you could do it yourself and perhaps borrow a timing gun from someone to check.

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225862-skyline-pinging/#findComment-3984784
Share on other sites

My car is totally stock save for a nismo rear muffler and I have my boost solenoid on a switch. If I run 7psi down low it also pings at about 3000RPM.

Higher octane fuel helps, I've also heard that a better exhaust will improve cylinder scavenging and might help this problem.. planning to do it anyway so will see if it helps.

Already checked ignition timing, changed fuel filter, and fitted 1 heat range colder plugs and makes no difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225862-skyline-pinging/#findComment-3987501
Share on other sites

Always used 98RON, I wouldn't use anything less either. It is definitely happier on 100RON.

Timing is 15 degrees, plugs are NGK BK6RE something somethign.. i think the standard heat range is 5 so it's 1 colder. Standard 1.1mm gap.

I have used consult software to try richening the mixture or retarding the timing, and in both cases when I get it to the point where pinging stops the car is running like a dog. So I just leave the boost switch at its normal value so I'm only running 5psi in the midrange and 7psi up top (which it is fine with).

I am thinking that a new exhaust/cat will provide less restriction and hopefully push my load points a bit further which will make the ECU richen things up slightly. I think "taking it somewhere" will only produce one of two outcomes - they will retard my timing further making it run like a dog or recommend a PFC which is a logical (but expensive) step. Really the only thing I haven't tried is replacing the fuel pump, and I don't think that's the problem because the pinging is worst in the midrange.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225862-skyline-pinging/#findComment-3990066
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...