Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Fellas n gals,

Looking for a local Brisbane / Ipswich Brake distributer. Not sure what pad I would need to take off the shelf to fit my Alcons.

I am going to pull the DS3000's off and need to walk in somewhere and order a set of 'these'.

lol

anyone come highly recomended?

Cheers very much

Michael

(shat my pants when I realised the QR Nissan Shootout is on in a week!!!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225948-brake-pad-distributers-in-qld/
Share on other sites

Hey Fellas n gals,

Looking for a local Brisbane / Ipswich Brake distributer. Not sure what pad I would need to take off the shelf to fit my Alcons.

I am going to pull the DS3000's off and need to walk in somewhere and order a set of 'these'.

lol

anyone come highly recomended?

Cheers very much

Michael

(shat my pants when I realised the QR Nissan Shootout is on in a week!!!)

wherabouts are you located in Brisbane?

GEt ya finger out Mik, You gtr drivers assume you only have to think about it and it will happen. :D

I get my brembo stuff from Dan at E.R.D. pretty keen prices too but i dont know that he does the alcan stuff. Worth a try tho.

Michael, I get all of my brake components either off Competition Friction or Racebrakes.

http://www.compfriction.com.au/

www.racebrakes.com.au

I have no problems with AP and Brembo and surely they can get Alcon. You will probably need either the brake part number or the dimensions of the pad.

hey chaps,

lol pulled finger out of arse and pulled wheels off and have HEAPS of pad life left. rofl

I spose I should change brake fluid. I think ive done 5 track days on it. Most guys do it every 2nd track day???

Thought my heavy shuddering would have been pads, but must be fluid as pads and rotors look great. Thanks Geoff, Yeah the calliper has a little sticker on it for dimensions of the pads, so grabbed the details off that for the future.

See yas at TimeAttack, hopefully with some sort of stopping power!

Mick

Edited by wrxkilla
I don't see how fluid can cause shuddering?

me either... ! ?

pads and rotors (4 mont old genuine alcon rotors $700 each) :blush: look fine to me and look smooth.

trying to figure why i was short of brakes (alot of pedal travel) and getting some shuddering...

any ideas fellas?

me either... ! ?

pads and rotors (4 mont old genuine alcon rotors $700 each) :) look fine to me and look smooth.

trying to figure why i was short of brakes (alot of pedal travel) and getting some shuddering...

any ideas fellas?

Get your rotors machined. Looks can be decieving. If they are even slightly warped your brakes will shudder.

The other area to check is your steering. play in the system wont neccessarily show up on acceleration or cruise but can get up a fair wobble under brakes.

cheers fellas,

doing some searching under the brakes section of the forum. some decent threads actually.

ah well, will look at it after timeattack... lol

As long as it sops for now....

:)

trying to figure why i was short of brakes (alot of pedal travel) and getting some shuddering...

any ideas fellas?

if you have excessive pedal travel you may have boiled your brake fluid, which means it could do with a drain and refill and a bleed, not expensive and it cant hurt.

If you have shuddering then it is likely the pads aren't bedded properly anymore, that you may have warped them or most likely you have stopped hard after some serious brake workout and left the car sitting, maybe even with the handbrake on. This last can change the rate of cooling and you get pad material entering the disc grain structure as it cools leaving an area that is harder than the surrounding metal. This is far more common than just warping and is almost impossible to remove with a quick skim. Look for a different colour and a pad outline on the disc surface.

So is the shuddering front or rear?

When bleeding try to never allow the reservoir to drain completely. Almost drain it through normal bleeding then top up with the new fluid and continue until you get clean fluid of the new colour through. I use a hands free bleeder and can do the brakes in around an hour including wheels removed for inspection of all other components.

BTW just ordered a set of Ferodo DS2500 pads for the GTR33 (stock Brembo) for $272 front and $161 rear and delivered fast From Competition Friction. I'm certain last time was overnight.

Be interesting to see what they can do for the 380mm x 40mm AP racing calipers (FIA GT1 class caliper) I just bought. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...