Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Got everything off to change the wheel studs but the wheel studs are too long to get behind to pull through so... How do I get them on now? We tried to undo the big nut on the centre to try and take off the thing the studs go into but even a rattle gun couldn't get it off. Is that the only way to get it off to get the studs in or? What's the best way to go about it?

Thanks in advance,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226009-changing-wheel-studs/
Share on other sites

Anyone know which way the wheel bearing lock nut turns? This is the 36mm nut that secures the hub in place.......... Urgent help please!!!

you dont usually have to pull the wheel hub apart.

you will find if you rotate the wheel, there will be a specific position from where there is room for a wheel stud to come out from behind.

Yeah I know but the wheel studs I have are almost double the length of the standard wheel nuts as the standard ones are too short for my new rims. I have tried even cutting one a bit shorter to no avail.

Anyone please tell me which way the hub lock nut turns?

call me stupid but quickly checking the tutorial thread it doesnt go into the detail chris needs.

He knows how to generally change the wheel studs, but in this case being twice as long as standard, the small area provided to slip in the normal size studs will not allow studs of this length in.

Already read that mate thanks but not what I was after.

Question has been answered though so thanks.

For anyone elses reference, the hub nut does undo and is a conventional right hand thread.

"The hub nut merely holds the half shaft into the flanged hub. Undo the nut, light tap on the half shaft and it will go in towards the diff. (if you have sufficient room)

But the drive hub is still the same distance from the backing plate.

So next step is to undo the 4-setscrews holding the wheel bearing onto the hub and then you'll have the drive hub/wheel bearing assembly in your hands. (These 4-setscrews are extremely difficult to get at in situ)" (Thanks to grigor)

Edited by NoFX_Hardcore
call me stupid but quickly checking the tutorial thread it doesnt go into the detail chris needs.

He knows how to generally change the wheel studs, but in this case being twice as long as standard, the small area provided to slip in the normal size studs will not allow studs of this length in.

the tutorial did say that it was to change to longer studs, i was assuming if he is putting in longer studs it would be the same in reverse to get them out.

Edited by W0rp3D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...