Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Buy R33 Shocks?

islade

By islade,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I bought some lowering springs and chucked them in.

Just realised afterwards that the rear drivers side shock was leaking, i don't know if we damaged it, or it was just getting old.

Anyway, I need to get a new shock absorber.

I don't know anything about these, i'm assuming i would need a pair for the rear, so the sides match each other?

What is good on a budget? I'm not street racing, it's more of just a commuter. R33 Series 1 GTST.

I'm on the Gold Coast :whistling:

Isaac

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226512-where-to-buy-r33-shocks/
Share on other sites
turbs33 Community Regular

turbs33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Fulcrum quote me 500 ish installed for rear shocks only.. Just ur usual kyb or something...

So you'll be looking at at least 400 elsewhere for new shocks only installed, or probablly 250 -300 for just the shocks and install yourself.

You'd be better off finding some good condition 2nd hand ones for now for 100 bucks or something..

suspension places can rebuild stock shocks too for about 80 bucks a pop from what i understand.

Edited by turbs33
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Isaak, I also run the Sydneykid suspension in my GTR33. It is an exceptional kit with good ride without compromising handling.

Definitely worth spending a little extra as the car will improve dramatically.

Otherwise, if you want cheaper then Elite32 here in Brissy can help with a set of Teins setup for our conditions and not the rock hard Jap style.

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Isaak, I also run the Sydneykid suspension in my GTR33. It is an exceptional kit with good ride without compromising handling.

Definitely worth spending a little extra as the car will improve dramatically.

Otherwise, if you want cheaper then Elite32 here in Brissy can help with a set of Teins setup for our conditions and not the rock hard Jap style.

SydneyKid Suspension definately sounds bitchin', but it's also definately out of my price range :D

I did a member search for Elite32, the closest i could find was EliteR33. Is this who you are talking about?

How do i get in contact?

Isaac

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

If I were you, I'd just keep my eyes open for late model R33 suspension (say from a 40th anniversary edition R33 series 2 - I think 98 model)

they are the newest old shocks you will be able to get.

For someone looking to replace a leaking shock on a road car that is used for commuting, it's abit silly to be recommending SK's $2K kit or Teins for $1k+

rebuilding the stocker for $80 sounds more up your alley I'd say.

does that make them "good as new" so to speak?

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've found WW Shock Absorbers in brisbane who will recondition them for $120 a pop, definately sounds like the cheapest way to go :rofl:

Should I just get the broken one reconditioned, or should i do the other rear one as well so they 'match'?

I obviously don't know how rooted the fronts are, is there an easy way to check them? Because if they are totally smashed, i might find an organ i don't use much to sell, and get the front ones done too, beause i believe that is where i would notice a real difference (assuming they are gone).

Is there any other little bits of suspension i might wanna check on/replace while i'm at it. I'm not taking about swapping in coilovers or something, just like bushes or anything else? I don't know anything about suspension (well, until yesterday when i did a strut swap and got myself into this mess!)

Oh, and on my front shocks,there is a little knob , labeled 1 - 5, is 5 harder or softer? What difference does it make?

Thanks for your help guys, as a new guy to this forum, it's great to have access to such a wealth of information and expertise!

Isaac

Edited by islade
islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just rang up Performance Suspension on Brisbane Rd, Labrador.

New KYB Shocks (supply only) 170 each rear, 220 each front.

He said it's dodgy to do one side (EG: left or right) but it's fine to do just fronts or just rears.

If it's only 50 more for a brand new one, without the downtime of having to wait while being refurbished, i think i would do that.

Is there anywhere i might find new shocks cheaper?

Isaac

Turbo 33 Proficient

Turbo 33

Posted
Posted
I just rang up Performance Suspension on Brisbane Rd, Labrador.

New KYB Shocks (supply only) 170 each rear, 220 each front.

He said it's dodgy to do one side (EG: left or right) but it's fine to do just fronts or just rears.

If it's only 50 more for a brand new one, without the downtime of having to wait while being refurbished, i think i would do that.

Is there anywhere i might find new shocks cheaper?

Isaac

pm sent

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all your help guys :)

I should be picking up a pair of second hand rear shocks this afternoon or tomorrow, with plans to install tomorrow.

Once i've put them in, i'll get a wheel alignment, and i should be all good, right? because the car handles like a wet noodle on hard drugs at the moment.

Can i get the alignment done before i put in the good rear shocks (i'm guessing alignment wouldn't be affected by a dodgy rear shock?), because if so, i could get an alignment today so that it's all good tomorrow after i replace the rear shocks.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

You shouldn't need an alignment as the springs hold the car at the right height, not the shocks.

I always recommend new and improved. When an old shock fails it may have an impact on the springs by working one side too hard and resetting that sides' height. Buying second hand can be as dodgy as they may have been unused for some time and the seals, when not exercised, may fail soon after installation and you are back at square one.

GL though and hope they work fine.

turbs33 Community Regular

turbs33

Posted
Posted

While we are at it any one know a reliable wheel aligner in South Bris somewhere? I work next door to a beaurepairs but the guys there look shady as all buggery, not to mention the ghey cars the drive there.

Dont know if i trust them with the skyline.

And whats a good alignment worth.. Fulcrum $110

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...