Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a question to save me some stuffing about.

I have an airleak like sound once the engine trys to come on boost and power flattens off along with boost not really holding.

Other than that the engine idles great and runs very nicely under load upto the point where you try to get some boost happening.

It all started after I was demonstrating the NOS system to Miko the other night and blew off an intercooler hose, as always you crap yourself when that happens :). Due to lateness of the hour MIko and I took 4 times as long as a single non-tired person would to fix the hose.

Anyway I specualte the BOV and hope it isn't a turbo gasket or something.

Input apreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22682-blow-off-valve-leaking-or-what/
Share on other sites

Rev - I thought the standard BOV was good for 1000hp at 10 Bar? :)

Seriously - sounds like the BOV. I've got a stock one sitting round that you can bolt on to test if you like. Drop me a PM and I can give it to you over the weekend.

hey i have go fast bits mach 1 trumpet bov and i reckon its pretty good (its red) hehe hehe well anyway ive got no leaks or nothing they reckon the gfb bov are one of the strongest and have a special seal and they dont leak.. i got mates with hks and one like that and he has leaking trouble to.. well ive had 2 gfb bov and no trouble yet so im happy with them and gonna stick with them.. happy bov customer.. talk to tecknik audio they did the coolest job.. ohh sorry are you allowed to plug perfomance shops .. ahh well.. old skool cuz

The BOV I suspect because the leak occurs under boost only and has not got any worse. It could be a small split in a hose that opens up under boost too, but I think the BOV might be the first port of call (easiest to check).

I think I missed the cruise this morning, I was up till 3am last nite working out the family finances for a tax evaluation :(

It was leaking around a plug that was installed to block a pipe.. only very minor though. Not sure if it would've cause the problems that Rev was describing..

You're a curious little cat this morning aren't ya? :)

Cam,

it appears that it is probably the little vacume hose we found. Even after we blocked it up as soon as I took off it was doing the same thing again. Normally when I take off quick I get a decent amount of wheel spin, unlike last night.

I'll probably do a propper job of blocking the hose off today and see what happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...