Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

I got a 93 r33 gtst, its got a 3 inch exhaut and a k&n pod filter among other things but they are the engine mods that im aware of. It has a greddy boost controller-just the turn dial one from in the engine bay. Whe i got it i knew that the boost was tweaked abit and have since been playing with it abit. I was having problems with it and people have told me that what im experiencing is boost cut!!! If i was cruizing along in 3rd at round 60 and then plant it once it hits between 3 and 4 grand it jolts and comes good then jolts and so on. So i turned the boost down 2 notches and tried again, still happening, so another 2 notches and now it doesnt do it but there is a major difference in power now. I mean on a cold night it was pretty good at the previous boost levels aslong as i stayed above 3500rpm in 3rd 4th n 5th. So on the highway it went really well but round town i notice the stuttering more so now. I changed the plugs and put iridiums in and also changed the fuel filter. And gave it a service. I only got the factory boost gauge and was unsure of what it was running before but it used to stop at 7 but now after turning it down 4 notches it is on bout 6. Much much slower on boost now. Not happy with it and want to know if there is anyway to get around this boost cut situation without getting a front mount?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

sounds like a good tip..... only with mine the problem has been cured by removing the cheap and nasty mechanical boost controller.....all I need to do now is work on restoring the kick ass power I was used to. From what I have learned recently a good electronic boost controller is the way to go.

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/#findComment-490350
Share on other sites

OK - if your getting a reading of 6-7 on the factory boost gauge that means your running about 13-14psi !! (7 on the factory gauge is close to 1 bar).

It will be the factory boost limit or your plugs. Regapping your plugs to 0.8mm might help.

I wouldn't recomend that you run more than 10psi if it's a series 2, and 12psi if it's a series 1.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/#findComment-490381
Share on other sites

yep, it's a series one.....I have an auto meter boost gague, with the origional disconnected. As mentioned above the car now runs smooth, I just need a reliable and controlable way of reaching the 10.5 psi it now reaches through a restricter. I don't think it needs to boost any higher than that.....just want to get there a bit quicker!!

Ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/#findComment-490393
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...