Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I got some stuff done to my skyline during the week. FMIC, 3" Cat back zorst, High Flow Cat, 3" Dump pipe,Bigger fuel pump, Apexi air induction, Apexi Digital boost controller and then I got the Nistune to 0.9 bar of boost. I was reading in some old topics that people with same car (R34 gtt auto) same stuff done to there car and they were getting 173wrkw at stock boost. And at 0.9bar of boost I got 158wrkw. Is this the power you would expect from a R34 gtt auto?

Trent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227476-power-for-skyline-r34-gtt-auto/
Share on other sites

Yes the car was tuned yesturday by Hyperdrive. They used Nistune to remap the ecu.

They were saying that it was the first R34 there to use the software.

hmmmm..

doesn't sound right..

not 158

hey sell that car and buy mine. :whistling:

Edited by rice boy

Does sound a little low, though Hyperdrive do seem to have a reasonably accurate dyno (as in it tends to be lower than some) but that wouldn't be that much of a factor.

My manual R33 GTS25t managed 190rwkw with similar mods (though my boost curve isn't great).

Post up your dyno sheets and maybe we can figure it out.

Hi mate,

I have a 1998 nissan skyline gt-t auto sedan, mods are fmic, turbo back exhuast 3inch, greedy electronic boost controller, k&n pod filter. Car on 10.5psi made 189.5kw, and stock boost which was 8psi made 183.3kw. Mind you this is with std fuel pump and std comp. This is the safest level to boost a 34 running a stock ecu. As if you go past the 12psi mark they usually start to cut out thats how the std ecu's are designed. Your figures don't seem right, i would be expecting a little bit more power. Post the dyno sheet up if possible. Hope everything goes well

Cheers.

Edited by DRFT31

I would post a picture of the dyno run but last night when I was at a mates house, I was about to leave so I started the car to warm it up then and it was running for about a min then it just turned off. So I tryed to turn it back on but it wouldn't start, so I waited for about 15min came back the car started for about 30sec's this time and I couldn't get it started again so. wtf :) . So now the car is stuck at my mates house and I will need to take it back to Hyper Drive to fix it. O yeh and the Dyno Sheets are in the car so I can't get them.

Hi mate,

I have a 1998 nissan skyline gt-t auto sedan, mods are fmic, turbo back exhuast 3inch, greedy electronic boost controller, k&n pod filter. Car on 10.5psi made 189.5kw, and stock boost which was 8psi made 183.3kw. Mind you this is with std fuel pump and std comp. This is the safest level to boost a 34 running a stock ecu. As if you go past the 12psi mark they usually start to cut out thats how the std ecu's are designed. Your figures don't seem right, i would be expecting a little bit more power. Post the dyno sheet up if possible. Hope everything goes well

Cheers.

Where was the dyno done for yours, I'd be suspecting that your numbers are a fraction high.

I dont understand, I thought you lose around 30% of power from the fly through drivetrain in his case 158kw making thats 211hp at the fly making that around 150rwkw....

On my dyno sheet i got 270hp at the fly i dont have 270rwhp...

Edited by Dani Boi

It doesn't just depend on what mods you have bolted on, what about the condition of the engine?

And judging from what you said how the car wouldnt start properly before. I think your plugs might be fouled or ro0ted. Might be responsible for a proportion of the power loss? m2c.

34 GTt's are 206kw flywheel stock (take about 7 or 8 kw for auto so ~198kw) and i dont think you would lose that much to the wheels without any mods. so with those mods its definately low. Did u get ur car from ur mates yet ??

You don't lose a percentage, a drivetrain will sap a certain amount of power but that doesn't increase with power.

158rwkw does seem rather low. I made 183rwkw with a similar turbo on the same dyno.

If a tuner is giving you a dyno sheet reading flywheel horsepower yet it's a chassis dyno, it's just a guess. Ask for one at the wheels.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...