Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

34 GTt's are 206kw flywheel stock (take about 7 or 8 kw for auto so ~198kw) and i dont think you would lose that much to the wheels without any mods. so with those mods its definately low. Did u get ur car from ur mates yet ??

Yeah I got the car back into Hyperdrive yesturday they think the fuel pump may of died or it was a dodge connection.

I still have the dyno sheets in the car but it shows a lot of flat spots. That's why it was very jerky to drive.

sometimes hyperdrive tend to tune the cars wayyy too safe, that could be it.

did u ask hyperdrive why it was reading low?

when allstar open back up maybe take it there?

Hyperdrive didn't say why it was that low. They said that they were going to put back on the dyno when they fix the fuel pump

If it doesn't change I may take it to allstar.

Boost controller could be making it jerky to drive, mine was jerky coming on boost till I had another fiddle with the ebc. It would come on hard then 1000rpm later it would kind of hesitate for half a second then pull hard again.

I dropped down the pressure it holds the gate shut till by 0.2 and it made a huge difference, really smooth and still pulls just as hard.

I just spoke to Hyperdrive on the phone, they said that another R34 was getting the ecu tune yesturday at the same amount of boost not sure what mods it had but it pulled a 220rwhp and it was a manual. Which is another 6wrhp than I pulled.

i have pretty much the same mods but a simple Safc2 rising rate fuel reg plus a front pipe. had my 98 34gtt auto tuned at performance unlimited and it made 218.4kw at the wheels.(292.9rwhp) was tuned at 10psi, power curve was ok but thats all you can get with a safc2.

hope you have better luck once your pump is fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...