Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 244
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...

hahahahaha nah man im flat out tuning the radio lol... like sumone else i know

and yeh y not tis fun to waste fuel.

o also im not doing the exhaust redmans will be doing that for me

Edited by skylinekid

have had set backs with the head.... basically previous machinist needs to be shot..... are goin with a whole new setup still in the process of deciding wat to go with....

one thing i will say tho paul from red r racing is one of the most helpful guys ive ever come across in this business and a nice bloke to boot. so neone who is thinking of gettin an engine built give paul a pm. not that he doesnt have enough on his plate already lol. you wont be disappointed.

this will give you some idea of what we came up against with the head

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...es-t205992.html

all sorted now...two options...

we buy the head with all the JUN gear in it, sell the cams and port it

or we start with the other stock head you have and we do it our way.

cheers for the wrap Simon...after the last two days of stress and head scratching its appreciated.

Guys,

don't use JUN cams. I don't know if there is some secret to getting them set up properly but they destroyed my 7k head. The small base circle on JUN cams makes for tall shims and they pop out of the buckets. This happened to me with only 550rwhp, 1.2 bar, 8000rpm and 3000kms. Really did waste a beautifully ported and polished head (lifters cracked and got out of round damaging the cast).

Another one on the build at the moment with Tomei cams, lifters and the rest of the fruit.

Paul,

once this is out of the way will be looking to get that NPC clutch for the box i brought off ya.

Cheers

Guys,

don't use JUN cams. I don't know if there is some secret to getting them set up properly but they destroyed my 7k head. The small base circle on JUN cams makes for tall shims and they pop out of the buckets. This happened to me with only 550rwhp, 1.2 bar, 8000rpm and 3000kms. Really did waste a beautifully ported and polished head (lifters cracked and got out of round damaging the cast).

Another one on the build at the moment with Tomei cams, lifters and the rest of the fruit.

Paul,

once this is out of the way will be looking to get that NPC clutch for the box i brought off ya.

Cheers

Yes there is a secret to setting them up...its called knowing what your doing...lol

You run the thicker Tomei buckets so you have to don't run excessively thick shims to get the lifter clearance correct. I run the 29mm base circle cams, the thicker Tomei buckets with the offset JUN titanium retainers and rev mine to 9500rpm all day....not an issue if the engine builder has an understanding of how things have to work together to get the engine to stay together.

yeah i shoulda run the Tomei buckets, i did think about it. Didn't think i'd need them with only 10.8mm of lift. How come JUN don't make suitable buckets anyway?

I did run JUN Titanium retainers but don't know if they were offset of not. I brought a kit, cams, retainers and springs. One would think the retainers were suitable for the spec of the cam shafts.

yeah i shoulda run the Tomei buckets, i did think about it. Didn't think i'd need them with only 10.8mm of lift. How come JUN don't make suitable buckets anyway?

I did run JUN Titanium retainers but don't know if they were offset of not. I brought a kit, cams, retainers and springs. One would think the retainers were suitable for the spec of the cam shafts.

the retainers would have been right....were they silver or gold?....its the lifter buckets that would have been lacking

I ask myself the same question everytime i do one of these why JUN don't make the buckets to suit...as it allows the chance of an 'incident' like your to occur when these products are being installed by the uninitiated.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...