Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i got my defect letter today and:

ride height too low - bah coilovers - not worried

suspension to retain 2/3 travel - 8/6 springs - should be fine

seatbelt retractors broken - have new seatbelts to put in anyway - not a worry

so far all good...

BUT

INDUCTION MODIFICATIONS to comply with standards

what the hell exactly does this mean?

car (rb25det) has:

hks bling bling obvious turbo & heatsheild

steel induction pipe

fmic

pod (in box with cai)

ebc & all other supporting mods

@ the time of inspection he was concerened with the steel pipe but the physical notice is a LOT more general...

any ideas on what i have to re-stockafy for vic roads (VIC roads)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/
Share on other sites

yeh I got this too, pretty easy fix... I think it is said somewhere that you can have either a pod OR a fmic... so in basic terms... you can only have one induction mod.... which in this case is obveously going to be the fmic, so just make the pod back to a standard skyline air intake and you'll be sweet...

I got similar shtuff to you... the bs was though, he said he cbf measuring the height of my ride... he just put it down... even when I told him it was fine and to measure it....

prix...

Adam :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/#findComment-4014939
Share on other sites

I got similar shtuff to you... the bs was though, he said he cbf measuring the height of my ride... he just put it down... even when I told him it was fine and to measure it....

prix...

I would have shoved him under the car, ruler in hand.....cbf is no excuse, he could get his arse fired for that. Essentially by writing that down he's given false evidence on a legal document.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/#findComment-4015040
Share on other sites

I had to customise My original air box to fit back in....

I made it look like it was meant to be that way....hacksawed it up, then black electrical tape where is had cut and a quick spray of black paint :P

If you have the standard filter in it like mine did.... don't flog it, car feels like its chooking and will be jerky... or you could just buy a better panel filter... but I cbf wasting the money for a drive down to the mechanics.

I know of an awsum place in Dandenong that told me all was good except for my hid kit... instead of making me pay again and have to come back, they said that I could work on it there, offered me standard bulbs if I needed and said that aslong as they see it leave with standard bulbs then it is fine...they also didnt say anything about my bigger turbo or bleed valve :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/#findComment-4015766
Share on other sites

instead of making me pay again and have to come back, they said that I could work on it there

i use to use a rwc guy that didnt fill out a rwc on the first check so if you needed longer to fix it you could, he would also only charge for one inspection, unfortunately he has retired.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/#findComment-4015972
Share on other sites

Having a POD and a FMIC is NOT a defectable offense!! It is an EPA issue, all the police really should do is EPA you for having both. As long as your POD is well secured, they should not be able to defect you. In fact if you come to my workshop with both your POD and FMIC, providing the POD is properly secured it will not get picked on.. AND as long as your intercooler has been mounted without and modifications to the cars structure, as in cutting structural parts to fit cooler piping etc

It just might be worth trying to get in contact with the people who are in charge of or handle the RWC side in VICRoads. I only know this because my bosses have attended roadworthy workshop meetings and have spoke to people higher up in VICRoads, and they have all said if the police have a problem with it then contact them!!

But then again getting EPA'd sucks! But if the police cant find 3 defects you dont need to present VICRoads with a RWC!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/#findComment-4016002
Share on other sites

if you come to my workshop with both your POD and FMIC, providing the POD is properly secured it will not get picked on.

where abouts is your work shop, with a comment like that im sure you will get more business in the near future.

Also there has been some spectulation lately that the hole for ic piping is only illegal on S2 R33's due to the air bags, do you agree with this?

But then again getting EPA'd sucks! But if the police cant find 3 defects you dont need to present VICRoads with a RWC!

So i guess it is best to come and see you for an rwc and not mention the epa loop hole.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228193-defect-notice/#findComment-4016008
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...