Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a screamer by accident, I wanted plumback. It will be getting fixed thank god it is too farken loud, just cop bait:)

Luckily, I have already opened it up next to coppers going the other way (also got a bit sideways) and they didnt turn around, but its only a matter of time.

The only problem with having a larger turbo with open wastegate is that you hardly ever hear the BOV anymore. That's what happened to me. When the turbo spooled up it was quite a loud high pitched whistle, then the wastegate would open and that's all you heard. The exhaust also became a lot louder on idle. I don't find these noises annoying, but what is annoying is having an external fuel pump. They are so noisey, and a constant buzzing which gets annoying after a short while. In summer it seems to work harder and get louder. Much better intank.

I actually like the fsshhh of my BOV. At one stage the car was making so many noises: Exhaust, external fuel pump, BOV, turbo whistle and open wastegate. Just like an orchestra :) But now that my car has had its stock turbo put back on, it's a lot quieter and I can hear the BOV - which is a nice change :D

What BOVs do people have? I have the BLITZ one and I think it sounds sweet. I was going to go for the HKS one but I thought it was a bit too high pitched for me. Does anyone have the GReddy/TRUST one? How's that?

Because the manifold keep cracking :) I bought that second hand and if you've ever seen the walls of the manifold (HKS, stainless steel) it is extremely thin. Only 1-2mm!! It kept on cracking due to the weight of the wastegate (50mm) which is very heavy for such a thin manifold. So I would suggest anyone out there who is bolting an external wastegate to a manifold to make sure it can hold it. Maybe even get a mild steel manifold to save costs and make it thicker and more durable.

Also, I am hoping to sell the car soon and I want to keep the turbo and wastegate for my next car :D

Who says no-one knows what they sound like?!?!?

I bar-up chronically when i hear one :D

First decent one I heard was trying to race Merli in his White gts-t (big mistake) and i had my window down and nearly went deaf!

Then in Brett's weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee-mobile i couldn't decide whether i liked the wastegate opening or the rubber frying sounds better?!?!?

I can pick em a mile off now... BOV?!?!? Girl-toy.... :)

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...