Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so my r33 gtst is boosting at 11.6 psi... .8 bar and i dont have an aftermarket ecu, and i cant make the boost go any lower!! Mods: pod, cold air box, r34smic, 3" dump 3.5" cat back, and a turbosmart dual stage boost controller.

So am i right in thinking the problem lies with the boost controller? I heard they werent that great anyway... and theres no point in me having a dual stage when at the lowest setting its already over what i can run with no aftermarket ecu!

Anyone know where i can get a good cheap manual boost controller? and are they defectable?

Edited by Alex_r33s2gts25t

Have you installed it correctly? You're meant to be able to set exactly the boost you want. Double check you've got it facing the right direction and all the lines are right, oh, and that you've set the knobs correctly.

Turbotech (ebay) make a great & cheap manual controller.

from what i know a less restrictive exhaust can be causing your spike in boost. my mate with a 33gtst had great boost control while stock - after he put on his hks superdrager.. boost control turned to shit.

if ur not planning on going for big power just get a ebc and get the stock computer retuned - something safe 13psi'ish?? will take care of ur problem and will make it safe to run that higher boost for not that much of a cost.

hope this helps.

stef

Hey yeah all the lines are facing the right way and its installed correctly... the knobs are turned as far back as they can go for their lowest setting.... before i did the exhaust (had r34smic, and pod and cover installed) it was boosting at 10psi... i couldnt change it any lower... then with the exhaust now its 11.6psi wtf..

Then again, when the aftermarket boost gauge was telling me 10psi, the factory one was saying about 7-8psi...

i need to get it tuned... then they can test it and tell me wtf its boosting at :)

Hey yeah all the lines are facing the right way and its installed correctly... the knobs are turned as far back as they can go for their lowest setting.... before i did the exhaust (had r34smic, and pod and cover installed) it was boosting at 10psi... i couldnt change it any lower... then with the exhaust now its 11.6psi wtf..

Then again, when the aftermarket boost gauge was telling me 10psi, the factory one was saying about 7-8psi...

i need to get it tuned... then they can test it and tell me wtf its boosting at :D

If you're after correct problem diagnosis, shell out a few bucks, get an ECU remap and dynotune at the same time. The following guy is realistically priced and knows his stuff:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...no-t210097.html

If you do require a good manual boost controller, a Turbotech is the way to go. Make sure you have an accurate boost gauge before you start modifying boost levels. Don't rely on the factory one!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual-tu...1QQcmdZViewItem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...