Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

In my R33 GTS-T Series 2, I'm currently running (with stock internals):

* Walbro high pressure fuel pump

* Apexi Power FC (running 14psi)

* Pod filter w/z32 pipe

* Full 3" turbo back exhaust with high flow cat

* Intercooler

which all up, outputs 205rwkW.

I'm looking at the best (and hopefully relatively cost effective) ways of getting 280rwkW+ (while keeping the stock internals), if possible.

Is this going to require a rebuild?

I thought I'd put it to you guys, as to the best course of action. Regarding budget, I guess it depends on the options available to me, but obviously lower is better.

Any advice/help is much appreciated.

Cheers.

A bigger turbo - > GT3071 or HKS 2835

Injectors -> 500cc and above

Re-Tune

Since it's still below 300rwkw, no it does not require a re-build

(emphasis mine)

Thanks for that.

Regarding a re-build, if the engine is not rebuilt, won't it strain the components much more once the output is increased?

Edited by r33 chris

of course it will.

your chasing double what the engine puts out stock.

it can be done and it may not break anything, its been done many times before, but it will definitely be putting everything under more pressure.

A bigger turbo - > GT3071 or HKS 2835

Since it's still below 300rwkw, no it does not require a re-build

Your right about the turbos, wrong about the rebuild. There's no magic number when RB25's pop. 280kw is getting close to the power threshold, but a nugget RB25 could seize at 270kw or less. Age, wear, tune etc etc all effect the engine's health.

Chris if you make 280kw keep in mind you'll rapidly shorten the engine's life.

Tune with safe AFR's, keep the limiter on 7000rpm or lower. Dont thrash the thing too much and use good oil and it should last for a long time. How long it will last is another question, how long is a piece of string?

upgrade the turbo fo sho!

im told the injectors can handle about 250rwkw so youll need bigger ones.

i run a forward facing plenum. not sure how much difference it makes, but worth researching i guess.

Your right about the turbos, wrong about the rebuild. There's no magic number when RB25's pop. 280kw is getting close to the power threshold, but a nugget RB25 could seize at 270kw or less. Age, wear, tune etc etc all effect the engine's health.

Chris if you make 280kw keep in mind you'll rapidly shorten the engine's life.

I had a feeling 280 may be pushing the envelope a bit.

Would 250 be more reasonable?

A bigger turbo - > GT3071 or HKS 2835

Injectors -> 500cc and above

Re-Tune

Since it's still below 300rwkw, no it does not require a re-build

As Above

Plus

coilpacks

Boost Controller

Z32 afm

clutch

also if you want the engine to last longer i would get an oil cooler and head gasket aswell

Edited by 33drifter

I'm sure he'll post in this thread soon enough as he's a wh0re :D but PM joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo. He has just finished an R33 running 265kW with the mods mentioned in this thread, turbo was HKS 2835. No rebuild, with an awesome tune. The car is super responsive and the tuner has suggested that it will run like clockwork for a long time. His low boost is 245kW which seems mild enough for the street and his high boost at 265kW is brilliant.

To add to the mods above, do some work on your suspension/handling. You won't regret it.

I am about to do the same thing in an R34 with a desired output of about 275-280kW. Newer motor and cams are really the only reasons why I am looking for a bit more.

Good luck mate.

yeh ive got suspension and some other handeling mods done makes a huge difference, but 265 rwkw sounds awesome the only thing i was worried about is reliability but if it will last i would definatly follow in his direction.

thanks again to everyone for your advise

what you have to remember is that you can upgrade power cheaply... but its just stupid.

for my 265 i have upgraded brake rotors & pads, adjustable camber & castor, sway bars, struts, coilovers, hicas lock etc etc and diff & oil cooler are next

not to mention that i wanted it responsive, so i went for an exhaust cam gear (to keep vct) and brought the power band down (dont mind losing 15 kw up top to get it all @ 3k) ;)

if you do it properly it will not be cheap.

by all means go for it :D

check out this thread for more info on my experiances with the 2835 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...