Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I really want three new guages - boost in PSI, oil temp and exhaust gas temp.

Boost and temp will be cheap Splitfires. I think I'll match it with an oil or water temp guage so there's a neat 3 guages in the central console.

The EGT however will end up being most likely an Autometer or Apex EL on the A-pillar.

Seems ok? I have doubts about the A-pillar as I don't want to be defectable.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22870-what-guages-are-important-to-you/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Shane

It may only be heresay, but isn't an A-Pillar legal as long as its below the top of steering wheel? That's where I just put mine anyway *shrugs*

Anything u mount on the dash/a pillar has to be lower than the highest point on your dash. Tried to mount a 5' tacho legally in my old car, didnt work, but close :(

I have EL boost on the A-pillar and Water Temp, Oil Temp and Fuel Pressure Defi's on the console. Also AVCR and RSM (mmm - Gs) are on the dash.

I look at the AVCR and water-temp most of the time. I use the speed readout on the RSM for highway driving (it flashes at 103km/h).

G's are good for passengers :)

I've never understood why people want a boost gauge. I set my boost on the dyno, and I leave it. Most boost controllers have a digital boost readout anyway.

People say "What if your boost spikes? or if you overboost to 1.5 bar? Don't you want to know about it?"

I say in reply: "You should set you boost up on a dyno and iron out all the spikes there. Has your boost controller ever "broken" and you've overboosted over what you set your boost controller at? I haven't."

Anyway. If I were to have any gauges it would be:

Water Temp

Oil Temp

in WA u can get permits for a pillar mounted gauges, aslong as they dont obstruct the vision. I had permit for Oil pressure gauge and monser tacho(albiet that was a wank permit haha). But we also have permit for the Sti with boost and oil pressure.

small gauges are fine. In words of guy at pits, cop was an idiot for point out the gauges as a defect.

"Boost and temp will be cheap Splitfires"

Don't get anything cheap - unless you just want them for the 'looks'. Otherwise you are defeating the purpose of trying to accurately monitor what's going on with your car.

As for "why have a boost gauge?" - if I, for example, blew a hose, the boost gauge would instantly tell me that. If there is a problem with the car, and it is boost related, the gauge will instantly tell me that. If my car starts to spike (for whatever reason), I can see it instantly and shut her down.

And my other 2c: buy defi

Originally posted by DaiOni

As for "why have a boost gauge?" - if I, for example, blew a hose, the boost gauge would instantly tell me that.  If there is a problem with the car, and it is boost related, the gauge will instantly tell me that.  If my car starts to spike (for whatever reason), I can see it instantly and shut her down.

What hose could you blow that would affect boost? Intercooler plumbing? Silicon hoses on the intake plumbing? They'd all REDUCE boost, so you don't have to worry. The only thing would be the hose to your wastegate actuator.... How many people do you know who's wastegate vacuum hose has fallen off? None?

You'd notice any increased boost, or an "unlimited boost" effect from the wastegate problems before you'd look at the boost gauge anyway, true?

What other reasons are there that the boost would suddenly decide to spike? If you have a decent boost controller, I can't see it EVER changing it's settings, unless you've stuffed around with it.

The only time I can ever see a boost gauge coming in handy is when setting up the car's boost levels and gain/balance.

I think Summoner gave the truth :) Everyone loves it because it's the most active gauge. The others (water temp, oil temp, EGT, whatever) don't move anywhere near as much, and doesn't have the "COOL" factor :D

Yes, I too like boost gauges cos they move :) Everyone wants to see something working and it's actually doing something. I think boost gauges are important (to me anyway) because I have the Profec B boost controller (no boost display). I have low and high boost and sometimes I like to see what the max boost is set at. I sometimes adjust the low and high settings too, so I don't want to set it too high and blow something. I think boost gauges are useful.

"What hose could you blow that would affect boost? Intercooler plumbing? Silicon hoses on the intake plumbing? They'd all REDUCE boost, so you don't have to worry"

I'm talking about the sequential setup of a late model rx7, which is my case. Your original post didn't specify 'skylines' which is why I responded as such. On my car, the boost gauge is a neccesity - which is why 'people' sometimes need them. However, I can't imagine why having a boost gauge would be a bad thing on any turbocharged car.

The defi gauges have a memory function - so you can record the boost gauge (for around 3 minutes) and play it back. This is a great little diagnostic tool - which has plenty of uses.

You are damn lucky to get DEFI link gauges! :) They are quite pricey aren't they? Is it true that when you start up the car the gauges calibrate and the pointer on the gauges moves right through the range? Example: If you have a boost gauge from 0bar to 2bar, when you start the car the "pointer" moves from 0 bar to 2 bar and then moves back down to 0bar? Nice :D

my cefiro has a tomei boost gauge and i have hardly looked at it. Mind u at present my EBC isnt wired up properly(so it looks), so i was curious as to what boost it was running, seems to be about 0.7bar or so.. Short of that i doubt i'll actually be looking at it :)

yeah, the gauge cycles on start up, beeps, has a whizz-bang closing down 'ceremony' etc

I got them because they are made by a company that specialises in gauges - not a company that makes all sorts of shit, and does gauges on the side.

I've shopped around and they are by far the best quality on the market.

And yeah, expensive, but not as bad from within japan (cost me about 34,000 yen for the control unit, boost gauge and holder)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...