Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, pretty new here

anyway got a rb20det manual cefiro just finishd conversion.

i trying to start car and there is no fireing at all.

i checked for the constant 12v on center pin on coils it has that but i pulled coils out and put screwdriver down them earthed and tryed to fire unfortunitly no spark there either.

i have changed the relays next to ecu no change.

have tryed numerous amounts of ignitors.same problem.

can any body help me out am going to test for power off ignitor loom later today will post how i go need help asap. also car is getting fuel so no problem there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228950-help-please-no-spark/
Share on other sites

ok i changedd all grounds etc an now we have spark,fuel but its just cranking and not firing at all im stumped .

ive tryed different ignitors upped fuel pressure ,pulled cas sensor out turnd and injectors clikt etc so thats fine.

i done a diagnostic check and it came up with 21 ignition signal.

can some one please help i need to get this thing going so i can go show some form to the ladies down the street hahaha

alright!! good news i put a bolt in the return and blokt it she fired up straight away so we know i have low fuel pressure even the its getting gas.i have replaced standard rb20de pump(car was originally rb20de auto) i replaced it with a twin turbo subaru fuel pump.why is this not giving enough pressure if the pump is biggrer and pumps more than the standard one?

i have a sard fuel reg.gas feeds threw bottem out the side and is in the hose that comes off fuel filter.
It's supposed to be on the return line off the end of the fuel rail. I should probably feed into the side and out the bottom. It's designed to maintain a given pressure in the fuel rail (it's not the actual pump that causes the fuel pressure).

What pressure is it set to maintain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...